I can report that it is possible to remove the shift cable without lifting
the engine.  Barely possible!    I managed to create a tool to blindly
unscrew the hex bolts that hold the clamp.  The cable is now out of the
boat.   Huge relief.


On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 9:42 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It
>> is an amazingly effective motor controller.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 . <bobmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi David,
>>>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>>>> hacksaw.
>>>> It's really tight down there.
>>>> --Bob M
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>>>>>
>>>>> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
>>>>> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   
>>>>> Bob's
>>>>>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
>>>>> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
>>>>> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!    The real problem is that
>>>>> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
>>>>> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
>>>>> the bracket for the wrench.    I am going to try hacksawing through the
>>>>> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
>>>>> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
>>>>> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
>>>>> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>>>>>
>>>>> Best,
>>>>>
>>>>> David
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi David,
>>>>>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>>>>>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>>>>>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
>>>>>> helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>>>>>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C&C 33-1 a few years ago when I had
>>>>>>> my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is 
>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>> to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting.
>>>>>>> There are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece
>>>>>>> was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits 
>>>>>>> into
>>>>>>> a groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable
>>>>>>> without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I
>>>>>>> had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to
>>>>>>> attach and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the
>>>>>>> binnacle to accomplish this.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Rod Randow
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> C&C33-1
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C&C33-1 and it is proving
>>>>>>>> to be troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series 
>>>>>>>> cable
>>>>>>>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>>>>>>>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   
>>>>>>>> The
>>>>>>>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.    It is looking like I 
>>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an 
>>>>>>>> alternative
>>>>>>>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   
>>>>>>>> Both
>>>>>>>> are fraught!    It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's 
>>>>>>>> mirror
>>>>>>>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>>>>>>>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> David
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>
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>>>
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