Thanks to all for the responses. I've just bought a bunch of 9/16 line for
halyards (current size) from Valley Rope for just over 50 cents a foot. I could
convert one to make sheets. I'll probably use soft shackles to attach it. I'm
absolutely sure it will be fine for any weather I would want to be out in. I'm
less sure of how it would do in a big blow.
I believe I had 9/16 sheets on my Pearson 30 when I bought it back in 1977. It
was double braid, and I believe polyester. But that was a much smaller sail,
even though it was a 150%.
Also, having experience now, I'm not sure that 9/16 isn't easier to handle
overall than is 5/8. 5/8 is heavy and stiff. And also the max limit of my self
tailers. Maybe even one size too large.
Thanks again,
Dan SheerPegathy = Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 8:31 AM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 143
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Today's Topics:
1. boarding ladder (Della Barba, Joe)
2. Removing Traveler Track C&C 29-1 (Sophia Weber)
3. Re: Stuffing box options on LF38 (Marek Dziedzic (hotmail))
4. Re: Stuffing box options on LF38 (Della Barba, Joe)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:57:45 +0000
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder
Message-ID:
<4971e55edfb5424594407ff674029...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn&vxp=mtr
Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina
PS ? I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The
trees are going full blast here!
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:01:02 -0400
From: Sophia Weber <sophia.we...@gmail.com>
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Removing Traveler Track C&C 29-1
Message-ID:
<CAPn7GCimJww5-JJtw5H=2gv07jwy3mof5vweuvcusam_phb...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hi all,
I've removed the original traveler track on my 78 C&C 29 MK1.
Removing it is pretty simple in theory, except for a piece of wood trim
that is in the way. After removing the plastic cover from underneath, there
is a piece of wood attached to the wall blocking 9 of the 12 bolts, making
it very difficult to undo the nuts. Thanks to small hands and a tonne of
patience, I was able to remove them, but putting the next one on will be
challenging again.
Has anyone removed this piece of trim? Does it have function? Is it
holding anything behind it? And how does one remove it without force? It
looks like there are four screw holes on the side of it (horizontal), but
because of the plastic mould around it, I can't reach those either and
can't even look to see what kind of screw it would be
Any insights would be appreciated,
Sophia
"Persistence"
1978 C&C 29-1
Toronto, ON
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:25:28 -0400
From: "Marek Dziedzic \(hotmail\)" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
Message-ID: <blu407-eas115e6ea65c227173f727165ce...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Patrick,
I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.
It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from
people who don?t have it.
I don?t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However,
there is another way ? you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway.
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.
Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 ?Legato?
Ottawa, ON
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old.
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS
when it is time.
http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and
I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate
stuffing boxes.
My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't
budged.
I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then
I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing
doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.
I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the
same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded
obviously.
Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style
packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop
shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my
preference.
PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two
caveats:
- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years.
I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which
should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if
it's 10 years.
- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.
I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it
regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an
engine, and has it been a good decision?
-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:30:20 +0000
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
Message-ID:
<698720c582d34ac9bca089094e0d8...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I have had the PSS shaft seal since about 1987 or so. I am on my second one,
when I had a bent shaft replaced a few years ago the yard swapped it out for a
new one. The original had started to leak after 20+ years.
I have been happy with it so far. The only maintenance it needs has been
burping the air out after scuba diving under the boat and making sure the hose
is adjusted right after an engine replacement.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
Patrick,
I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.
It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from
people who don?t have it.
I don?t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However,
there is another way ? you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway.
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.
Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 ?Legato?
Ottawa, ON
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C&C List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old.
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS
when it is time.
http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate
stuffing boxes.
My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't
budged.
I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.
I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously.
Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference.
PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two
caveats:
- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10
years.
- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.
I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly.
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an engine, and has
it been a good decision?
-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
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_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
