If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on reconditioning it once you have it out).
Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good. The deck fill can be removed pretty easily if you can access the underside. There must be some way for you to get at the hose from underneath and pull it off. Then you just have to remove the 3 screws or thrubolts on the fill. (most of my deck fills were screwed into the deck rather than thrubolted). Then when you remove it you can inspect the coring, reseal it (butyl tape), and heat it all you want to get the cap free. I don't think heat has any risk of exploding methane though. If your holding tank's air vent hose isn't clogged, most gases would go out that way. Even if that's clogged, I'm assuming you haven't been using it a ton in the last week? Older gases in the tank would've dissipated over time. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 8:19 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > From: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 10:57:17 -0400 > Subject: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma > > Suggestions needed: > > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has > corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several > deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the > tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic > tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get > enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting > lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the > boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to > the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a > “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I > have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it > is simply screwed in place? > > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to > spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever > help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1983 LF 35 > > Padanaram, MA >
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