Chuck, Thanks for the information. This confirms what I was thinking about, but it is great to have the confirmation form someone else. I did not even think about the potential of rubbing against the steering chain in reverse. Obviously you must have seen it happen.
The most valuable, though, is your idea of putting a spacer on the pedestal guard for the adjustment. This would remove the need of having about 10 ft. long arms or running up and down the companion way ten times during the process. Great idea (why didn’t I think about it?). I did that adjustment a while back, but I am still hitting the pedestal guard. At least the transmission goes into full gear forward (it wasn’t originally). I will adjust it again. thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 09:34 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List Throttle and shift levers Marek, What you did is exactly the right solution: re-orient the lever at the engine. Inside the pedestal, there are some long bronze clevises for the cable connections and sometime you can take up a small amount of distance buy screwing the clevis onto the end of the cable all the way (securing it with the locking nut), but that usually doesn’t buy you more than 6mm or so adjustment. So your solution of loosening the shift lever clamp at the transmission and moving it far enough forward or aft to create sufficient clearance is the right way of solving the problem. On transmissions where the output shaft is splined (little grooves on the end of the shaft for the clamp to grab onto), usually moving the lever one spline will generally get you the room you need at the pedestal. The best way to solve this is to put the engine in forward, disconnect the lever at the transmission, set a ½”-1” wide piece of plastic/wood/starboard/ whatever between the pedestal guard and the end of the lever and hold it in place with a rubber band or duct tape. Go down below and re-attach the shift lever to the transmission taking any slack out from the cable and tighten down the lever on the shift shaft. This way your cable will ALWAYS have clearance going forward, but take care to not have too much space between the guard and the shift lever on the pedestal, otherwise the inside part of the lever will rub on the steering chain when it is in reverse. It may take some fine tuning to get it perfect. Best, Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 9:21 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Throttle and shift levers I have a question related to the transmission lever: It seems that many people experience (or experienced) that problem – the shift lever hits the pedestal guard when you throw it forward. Obviously, this can lead to transmission not engaging fully. The question is how do you deal with it? There must be some group knowledge in that matter. My simple solution was to move the lever at the transmission end (rotate the arm on the rod coming out of the transmission that actually change gears). Is this the right thing to do? Preferably, I would like to see some air between the shift lever and the pedestal. What is the common wisdom on this topic? thanks Marek From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 08:57 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tim Sippel ; Bradley Lumgair Subject: Re: Stus-List Throttle and shift levers Hi Brad , On my 33 mKii shift lever goes forward for forward , pull back for reverse. I have the stainless throttle lever , but not shift lever as the curve of the stainless lever hit the pedestal guard and wouldn’t engage forward Cheers Tim Matico C&C 33mkII
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