I'd really like to thank everyone for all the responses on this. Went back to the boat today and carefully re-examined the core around the chainplate cutouts, and did a bunch of testing - percussion testing, weighting the area and looking for deflection, etc. Put a few pictures up at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk .
I don't think the extent of coring warrants peeling the top skin and replacing core material; I think digging out some core around the edges, and filling with thickened epoxy, will be enough of an improvement and repair. The deck, especially outboard and downslope of the chainplate cutouts, doesn't sound dull and doesn't deflect downward. It seems solid enough. The chainplates themselves show no signs of corrosion or moisture damage. Only one bolt (lowest inboard starboard) out of 14 showed any rust, and it was superficial (nowhere near twisting the head off). I'm fortunate that my boat has had a freshwater life its entire life. You can see in the pictures I've got a bit more old sealant to clean away, but then I think a dig, fill, and re-seal job should suffice. Really appreciate everyone's responses. Someday I'll need to work up the courage to do a peel & re-core job under my starboard aft bow pulpit foot - I have a small soft spot there. Best Regards, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave S via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: "C&c Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Dave S" <syerd...@gmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 9:43:00 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates FWIW, and I agree with much below. Will assume you are dealing with balsa and not plywood as a core. Have repaired both and will share the following, YMMV, etc... Probably way too much info, but: 1) Damp balsa does not mean structurally unsound.... (yet) 2) I prefer to remove more rather than less. This allows you a large enough area to work, makes it easy to clean/prep the surfaces, as well as being certain that you are not building any voids into the finished result. You can also use really thick glass-loaded epoxy that simply cannot be injected into a small hole. As with drywall/sheetrock, it is sometimes easier when doing repairs to give yourself space to work, and to prep the surfaces. 3) I like the hole saw approach, cutting through one skin only. The hole saw also allows you the opportunity to install a structural filler piece, well bedded in glass-filled epoxy. Rather than just troweling in the schmutz. you can laminate a sheet of fibreglass into a high density layup of the appropriate thickness, (even tapered, or curved) then use the same hole saw to cut out a "puck" from that sheet and install into the hole. Bulletproof. 4) IMO Working from below is best if you have the space/access, for a number of reasons, including the fact that any holes won't move. Working from above can be easier, though the cosmetic redemption is harder. 5) Epoxy is available in a range of cure times. "hot in the pot" should not be an issue if you pick the right one. Never had that happen, but I have had it get a little warm and further shorten the cure time. (have had polyester resin get pretty hot....) 6) To make a patch that feathers on the edges, laminate progressively smaller pieces of cloth (alternate mat and cloth with polyester resin, I like biaxial stitch mat with epoxy) on a sheet of waxed paper, then lift that and stick it onto the wound like a bandaid, peeling off the waxed paper. Best is to do this (or any sequential application of epoxy) on top of the previous epoxy application while it is at its B stage (gelled but not cured) Not only is the putty still it pliable, but it will not need prep to achieve a good chemical bond. You can not simply epoxy over top of cured epoxy and expect a bond. (google "amine blush") 7) when done, (but not cured) you can carefully lay some PE film (or waxed paper) over top and smooth. this can help tame any stray edges and depending on the repair, actually functions a bit like a vacuum bag, assisting in adhesion to curves. You can also shape any putty into smooth shapes or radii for a more professional result. 8) Read up on fillers. If you expect to fill space, you don't want the epoxy to flow, you need colloidal silica, If you want it to be strong you need to load with glass, you want to sand it microspheres. (don't put yourself in the position of having to sand the structural part of a repair....) 9) make a notched trowel and use appropriate fillers for fairing/finishing. The notches leave little ridges in the epoxy. Sand those off and stop. OK, that's enough... Dave ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: < cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > Date: 30 January 2017 at 09:25 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 70 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates (Danny Haughey) 2. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates (Danny Haughey) 3. Re: Deck Coring Around Chainplates (Hoyt, Mike) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Danny Haughey < djhaug...@juno.com > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 09:08:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates Hi randy, It seems you are definitely going in the right direction. I had a problem like this on one of my old boats but, under the bow rail feet. I traced out the size of the plate and oped things up a bit with a hole saw to give deeper >>>snip _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
