SO, where did you move your batteries from/to? I believe the original configuration was under the quarter berth. Mine had been moved by a previous owner.
Thanks, Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com (416) 203-9858 -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: February-17-17 7:37 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 133, Issue 55 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: C&C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger (Della Barba, Joe) 2. Re: Re-wiring, looking for suggestions (John Rand) 3. Re: Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator (Josh Muckley) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 12:12:37 +0000 From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger Message-ID: <58cefe94bbd34f8b8ad4249918a02...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You may be overthinking this. It might just look ugly. You could always remove it and clean it up and/or find a local radiator shop to boil it out. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I with a clean heat exchanger - I let it sit in a bucket of vinegar with the end caps off From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark Baldridge via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 10:12 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge <jmbaldri...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger Joe, It does not leak nor overheat. However, I'm worried about electrolysis as the zincs have not been changed in the last two and a half years and there is lot of green coating on it at the ends and fittings. I'm planning on taking the boat from Mobile Bay to Washington NC the end of March by water, so I have a little time to get it right. Just don't want a problem once I'm on the move. I'll be back to the boat week after next. I'll pull the caps off and check the zinc and see what the condition looks like. Maybe I can find a shop that can give me a quick turn around if it looks bad. All my previous boats are/were raw water cooled A4s. I'm just not familiar with exchangers and their possible failure issues. Thanks, Mark On 2/16/2017 9:50 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: Does it leak or overheat? Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com<mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 1:02 PM To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com><mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com><mailto:capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger I'd take it to a local radiator shop and see what they think. They might refurbish it for a lot less than $300. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 302631 _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170217/a6b3218e/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:25:15 -0500 From: John Rand <john.e.r...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions Message-ID: <cah0ob6ewf3duqcvccua139ouhez2xwvcy2r_nvp2dnyysz3...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Hi Alex, I also have a C&C 35-II (1974). Just moved my batteries and am installing a windlass and solar panels. Lots of electrical questions, AC and DC. Thanks for posting this. I'll be following it closely. John john.e.r...@gmail.com On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is > now going to get new cabin wiring. > > > > I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head > is spinning, so thought I ?d turn to the list for some collective > wisdom > > > > Here?s a few: > > > > What sort of panels do people recommend? The spread is for a couple > hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined > AC/DC Blue Seas baby. > > > > I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with > one > 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station. > > > > SHORE POWER > > > > Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer? > > > > Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on > your incoming? > > > > BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION > > > > Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle > also connected with battery ground? Has anyone ever considered > bonding the aluminum toe rails? > > > > RFI shielding > > > > What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk? > > > > That?s it for now. > > > > This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and > Standard Instruments. The power supply for the electric motor was > done already by a marine electrical guy and works extremely well. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Let ?er roll! > > > > Alex > > > > Alex Giannelia > > C&C 35-II (1974) no 282 > > a...@airsensing.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170217/48d47792/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 06:36:34 -0600 From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator Message-ID: <CA+zaCRBL7G7-YoL8m45F-W7QqBHde6T6n=aX=brou9t_73o...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" David, It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for. If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty method shouldn't be used. As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from the alternator straight to the house battery bank. You'll program your regulator to match your house battery chemistry. The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link below. They're cheap starter solenoids. $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost. http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1&Action=14&AXD=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99 Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter useless. If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal. The shunt has a linear voltage drop (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current (0-100amps). An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be used to power your ammeter. A new ammeter would need to be selected such that it matches the shunt in order to read properly. Placing the shunt on the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents can be measured. https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a tractor or skid loader application. Once the engine was started the charge current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full capacity. A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after start. The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery. 30 amps momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant concern. Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site. First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors described here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_ wiring_harness_upgrade&page=1. I also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer. I have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will do the other in the spring. I have read the article a number of times now and am reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of the details are fuzzy to me. I have a hard time understanding the whole thing if I can?t look at a wiring diagram. Has anyone created a wiring diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these Universals? More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: *Simply jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way back to the battery switch and then to the battery banks.* I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as I never look at it). I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am having trouble seeing what this accomplishes. Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two options. First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an ACR to the starter battery. Second would be a charge controller (Balmar 614) between the alternator and the battery banks. Am I right that it is one or the other? What I read from the same site makes me think the charge controller is the much better option since I have AGM batteries and he discusses extensively the problems of Motorola alternators, temperature compensation and charge control http://www.pbase.com/ mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries. Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, is this the right solenoid to use: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1% 7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=2262949 Second unrelated question: In his section on winterizing water systems he says: *Water heaters are always drained and by-passed you do not run pink through them! * I have done this both ways, but I can?t see why it is so much better to bypass and drain. I found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater so have been doing it the easy way of emptying the water tanks and then running propylene glycol through until red comes out both hot and cold lines. Maybe if I plumbed it to make bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I can?t see why it matters other than using more antifreeze. Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. 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