I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still
never seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled
knob on the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of
the filter housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started
thinking about how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and
tapped a hole in the top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type
of fitting.  It worked but necessitated using small tubing to direct the
vented fuel into a bottle.  It wasn't until I performed this mod that I
realized just how much fuel needed to be vented in order to flush all the
air out of the filter.  I was usually looking at about 1 gallon of fuel
just to get all the air out.

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.
I was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the
engine already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the
bleeder valve to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and
t-handled valve in the return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled
valves with some clear tubing.

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and
maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both
t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You
can watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent
continues.

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The
racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I
also show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new
racor filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to
creep up I change it...hasn't happened yet.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 30, 2017 7:18 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>
>
>
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the
> Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the
> engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and
> crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit
> of throttle, but it will start.
>
>
>
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>
>
>
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if
> you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this
> little filter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
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