Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant
passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If
the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you
would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level
carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where
it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what
you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.

Gary

~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping
> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the
> gasket were blown?
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such
> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet
> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going
> down, with no apparent leak?
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down,
>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts
>> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean,
>> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should
>> do before you send it to a shop.
>>
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves
>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
>> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
>> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
>> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
>> you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>>
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
>> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
>> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
>> precombustion chamber.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings all.
>>>
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the
>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning
>>> to extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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