Gene, There is no doubt that the bolts are designed to act together. Creating unbalanced strain in a few bolts but not all is probably better than equally loose on all, but not by much. On the other hand if you find that all the accessible bolts are appropriately torqued then it is pretty likely that the single inaccessible bolt under the mast is tight enough. To be honest if I found that to be the case then I would perform the v-groove and fill with g-flex and call it good. Do as little as is necessary.
Josh On Apr 11, 2017 5:49 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hi Josh, I'm not planning on dropping the keel this year. My boats on the hard right now, but I wasn't planning on dropping the mast. Do you see any issue with just checking the torque on the ones that are easily accessible? Thanks, Gene "Hawk" C&C 29-2 84-85 From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> > To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion > Message-ID: > <ca+zacrc7jpdbfepdbnv8r4mnpiwui-am6jzfp06gpe4qwnd...@mail.gm > ail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/keep-your-bilge-dry-with-a- > garboard-drain-plug/ > > On Mon, Apr 10, 2017, 5:50 PM Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Gene, > > > > If you're spending a significant amount of time out of the water and > can't > > keep your bilge dry (not uncommon). Many of the listers have installed > > garboard drains. They install the plug and then fare over the outer > hole. > > In the winter once the boat is hauled out the plug is removed and the > > faring is knocked out. The bilge drains completely for the duration of > the > > winter. > > > > As for your keel to hull crack. Many of the listers refer to this as the > > C&C smile. Some do so little that when their boat smiles at them they > just > > smile back. Others have gone so far as to remove the keel and thoroughly > > refit. Generally speaking you should at least check the keel bolt > torque. > > This should be only be done while sitting on the hard. It will usually > > require removal of the mast to get to one of the keel bolts. You'll also > > need some jumbo sockets, a torque multiplier, and a torque wrench. After > > checking the torque, some of the listers have had good results grinding a > > 1/2" deep 'V' groove at the crack, filling with thickened epoxy, and > > applying a 4" wide fiberglass tape bandage all the way around the keel. > > > > Here is a different prescription: > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc > /view?usp=drivesdk > > > > Good luck, > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > On Apr 10, 2017 1:36 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" < > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with > 4200. > > It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for > boats > > with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in > > Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if > filling > > it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt > and > > through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I > > mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill > and > > some vigorous hammering. Thoughts? > > > > Gene Fodor > > "Hawk" > > C&C 29-2 84-85 > > > > _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
