I had a season where my rings got stuck.  Compression measured 155, 165,
425.  The crankcase was so heavily pressurized that the dipstick blew out.
Ultimately I was able to "unstick" the rings by putting penetrating oil (PB
blaster) in the cylinders and hand rolling the engine daily for a week.
After reassembling it took about 30 minutes of farting around with it but
it finally caught and roared to life.  I retested the compression and they
were all above 400 (I can find the actual numbers if it matters).  I didn't
have a lot of experience with the engine prior but since then I have had
elevated crankcase pressure.  The breather would let oil into the air
filter, the dipstick would still work its way out unless restrainted, and
the HP fuel pump leaks oil where it attaches to the gear case.  One of my
first solutions was to put in a drop out tank off the breather.   You can
see it in my video here:
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

This eliminated my oil leak out of the breather AND allowed me to monitor
the amount of blow by.  The cool thing is that the amount of accumulated
oil has decreased dramatically over the last 3 years.

The second solution was to replace my dipstick.  The old gasket on the
dipstick had taken a set and no longer sealed tightly enough.

Third will be to re-seat my hp pump.  When I do it I'll pull the gear case
cover and clean it out.  I also have new shims to check/set the timing.
This is an off season project.

It has been about 3 years since the rings stuck and as it stands, the
engine starts with only a momentary push of the start pushbutton and runs
smooth.  It starts easily even when in the dead of winter.

To check the compression hoyt tractor sells a compression checker for ~$100.
I could let you borrow it if you like for the cost of shipping...both ways.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 5:33 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C&C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C&C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
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