Josh, A great description of the process. I see some rudder inspection in my future. Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Ron, > > I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice. > > The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft > is juat a spacer. The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down > but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps > it in place. This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling > to get caught. > > Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful. Its a bit time releasing > the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered > is also time consuming. Not hard just time. Be careful though when there > is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain > in the pedistal. To prevent this lock the wheel. You will also have to > monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning > sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall. That's the trick part. > > The radial wheel is easy. Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you > may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering > the radial wheel. If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the > height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier > during reassembly. A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes > right off. Now is the time to bead blast it and paint. I don't know why > they didn't from the factory. I found that I had insufficient washers for > the nut and bolt heads. They had been eating away at the aluminum with > galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear. Use tef-gel or marlube and > consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and > the aluminum wheel). > > Now for the real problem. Once the wheel is off you will want to support > the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the > hard. A hydraulic jack is perfect for this. The rudder weights 100 to > 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible. With the > load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy. They are held by a single > bolt running through the rudder shaft. Just remove the nut and at least > one should come off. They are bronze and getting new ones machined is > cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr. I suspect that corrosion on > the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed. This may complicate > removal. PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick. > > TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should be > pretty trouble free. Make sure you look for any other cause as you > disassemble. I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of > the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling. > > If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the rudder > and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft. I use the > same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop. If I was going to do it again I > would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient > than the rudder shaft. 2 actually, one for the top and one near the > bottom. Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if > possible. > > Good luck. Let us know what you find. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > >> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their >> rudder. >> >> >> >> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a >> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder. The wheels >> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID >> and 4”OD. My wheels are frozen and do not turn. When the rudder is >> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it. I’ve tried to reach in, >> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck. It looks like I may >> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the >> wheels. >> >> >> >> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be >> issues removing it? Does anyone know a source for skate wheels? >> >> >> >> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and >> the hull. With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and >> rotate around the rudder shaft. I guess when the rudder lifts up, the >> bushing provides a bearing surface. Does this sound correct? >> >> Thanks, >> >> *Ron* >> >> Ron Ricci >> >> S/V Patriot >> >> C&C 37+ >> >> Bristol, RI >> >> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray