Thanks for the additional info. All the best, Gary ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks Gary. > > When monkeying with the steering cables keep and eye out for fish hooks. > If you find any then it is time for a replacement. I'm happy to discuss > this further if desired under a different subject line. > > There is also a good chance that the sheeves at the bottom of the pedistal > are in need of replacement. The plate to which theycare mounted is carbon > steel and after 30 years mine was in bad need of replacement. Major areas > had rusted away and I think this was contributing to slop, noise, and > misalignment in the cables for the steering system. Good news, edson > doesn't make these components the same way anymore. They use bronze now > instead. Bad news, the new ones are supposed to be like for like but > absolutely are not. Working with edson they think that they sold me the > very last carbon steel plate which they used to remount my old sheeves. > They were extremely knowledgeable and helpful and didn't charge > rediculously for their services. I kept the old carbon steel plate it > anybody could use it for designing a new plate from... Say something like > stainless steel? > > IIRC Chuck did a pretty good writeup of his solution to replacing the > sheeves on his boat with the new style from edson. I didn't find it right > off with google but the link below is someone else's example. > > https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http:// > biankablog.blogspot.com/2010/06/replacing-edson-steering- > idler-plate.html&ved=2ahUKEwiw2uf4ycPYAhUC0lMKHRrhBOIQFjAMegQIBBAB&usg= > AOvVaw3QkwKoAJtli2e9RxQDjCLL > > During all of your steering and rudder work. Consider what the > consequences would be if any part of it failed! I've worked diligently to > ensure that that doesn't happen. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Jan 6, 2018 9:29 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > >> Josh, >> A great description of the process. I see some rudder inspection in >> my future. >> Gary >> S/V Kaylarah >> '90 C&C 37+ >> East Greenwich, RI, USA >> >> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ >> >> >> On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Ron, >>> >>> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice. >>> >>> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the >>> shaft is juat a spacer. The weight of the rudder typically keeps the >>> rudder down but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the >>> bushing keeps it in place. This also prevents creating a place for ropes >>> and bio-fouling to get caught. >>> >>> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful. Its a bit time >>> releasing the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and >>> centered is also time consuming. Not hard just time. Be careful though >>> when there is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the >>> drive chain in the pedistal. To prevent this lock the wheel. You will >>> also have to monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the >>> turning sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall. That's the trick >>> part. >>> >>> The radial wheel is easy. Its position on the shaft is adjustable so >>> you may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when >>> entering the radial wheel. If they are good and need no adjustment then >>> scribe the height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment >>> easier during reassembly. A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it >>> comes right off. Now is the time to bead blast it and paint. I don't know >>> why they didn't from the factory. I found that I had insufficient washers >>> for the nut and bolt heads. They had been eating away at the aluminum with >>> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear. Use tef-gel or marlube and >>> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and >>> the aluminum wheel). >>> >>> Now for the real problem. Once the wheel is off you will want to >>> support the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on >>> the hard. A hydraulic jack is perfect for this. The rudder weights 100 to >>> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible. With the >>> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy. They are held by a single >>> bolt running through the rudder shaft. Just remove the nut and at least >>> one should come off. They are bronze and getting new ones machined is >>> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr. I suspect that corrosion on >>> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed. This may complicate >>> removal. PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick. >>> >>> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should >>> be pretty trouble free. Make sure you look for any other cause as you >>> disassemble. I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of >>> the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling. >>> >>> If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the >>> rudder and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft. I use >>> the same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop. If I was going to do it again I >>> would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient >>> than the rudder shaft. 2 actually, one for the top and one near the >>> bottom. Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if >>> possible. >>> >>> Good luck. Let us know what you find. >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their >>>> rudder. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a >>>> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder. The wheels >>>> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID >>>> and 4”OD. My wheels are frozen and do not turn. When the rudder is >>>> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it. I’ve tried to reach in, >>>> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck. It looks like I may >>>> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the >>>> wheels. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be >>>> issues removing it? Does anyone know a source for skate wheels? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder >>>> and the hull. With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and >>>> rotate around the rudder shaft. I guess when the rudder lifts up, the >>>> bushing provides a bearing surface. Does this sound correct? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> *Ron* >>>> >>>> Ron Ricci >>>> >>>> S/V Patriot >>>> >>>> C&C 37+ >>>> >>>> Bristol, RI >>>> >>>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > >
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