Thanks to everyone for their replies. All of this information is very helpful.
On Saturday, January 20, 2018, 10:20:42 PM EST, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: C&C 30 Mast Step (Michael Brown) 2. Re: Keel bolt torque (John Christopher) 3. Re: C&C 30 Mast Step (Edward Levert) 4. Re: Keel bolt torque (Josh Muckley) 5. Re: Keel bolt torque (John Christopher) I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than a specific species. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak is very good for marine use. Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we had what was reported to be one of the larger stands of White Oak in Canada. A developer needed to beat a pending municipal law concerning cutting of mature trees so early one morning a team of loggers came in and clear cut the whole property. I tried to get some of the wood knowing its properties. The crew laughed and said I didn't want it, they could barely cut it even with sharp chains. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 13:38:23 -0500 From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast Step Message-ID: <03803e6a-8ee7-4d53-845a-d02dc3e63...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak. Bill Bina Hi Josh, Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one of your subs) :)? /J On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The 3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating, to use one. We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud, and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but the preparation was a very important part. I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated. https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to tell myself that it was done correctly. That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels. I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses. Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80 Anything I'm missing? Thanks, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD ______________________________ _________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray When the mast step was rebuilt on my 30-1, the professional used fiberglass laminate for the stringers. I use the word professional with emphasis. He was the boatright for the Olympic teams in England and China. Wood no mater how well sealed in a wet environment makes no sense to me. Ed LevertBriarpatch C&C 35New Orleans Sent from my iPhone On Jan 20, 2018, at 11:34 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than a specific species. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak is very good for marine use. Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we had what was reported to be one of the larger stands of White Oak in Canada. A developer needed to beat a pending municipal law concerning cutting of mature trees so early one morning a team of loggers came in and clear cut the whole property. I tried to get some of the wood knowing its properties. The crew laughed and said I didn't want it, they could barely cut it even with sharp chains. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 13:38:23 -0500 From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast Step Message-ID: <03803e6a-8ee7-4d53-845a-d02dc3e63...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak. Bill Bina _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Ask and you shall receive. https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 12:47 PM John Christopher <phygi...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Josh, Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one of your subs) :)? /J On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The 3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating, to use one. We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud, and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but the preparation was a very important part. I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated. https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to tell myself that it was done correctly. That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels. I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses. Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80 Anything I'm missing? Thanks, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Nice! Thanks... /J On Jan 20, 2018, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: Ask and you shall receive. https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 12:47 PM John Christopher <phygi...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Josh, Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one of your subs) :)? /J On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The 3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating, to use one. We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud, and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but the preparation was a very important part. I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated. https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to tell myself that it was done correctly. That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels. I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses. Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80 Anything I'm missing? Thanks, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ CnC-List mailing list CnC-List@cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray