Agree with Randy in all comments except one. If your mast deposits as much 
water as mine into the bilge, having a pump down at the bottom is necessary, 
but….there is often other junk that gets down there as well and that means you 
need to get under the step to clean out the pump screen. If you take your mast 
out often, then that is not a problem. I would recommend a self-priming pump 
with a hose down there instead. I am in the same position and will be making 
that install as well as (once again) repairing or replacing the supports.

 

Gary Nylander         #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2018 12:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford <randal.staff...@icloud.com>; Collin Ferguson 
<cferg...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast Step

 

Hi Collin, responses inline.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

On Jan 18, 2018, at 8:49 PM, Collin Ferguson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

My mast step stringers were in very bad shape and the mast plate was dropping 
into the bilge so I'm replacing the step this winter. I have a few questions...

 

1). Terminology wise, are the lateral plywood supports considered the mast step 
or stringers?  Or is the heavy cast iron plate that sits on top of them called 
the mast step?

 

My understanding of the terminology is that the lateral plywood pieces are 
called the mast step supports.  In my boat (C&C 30 MK I hull #7, built 
September 1972) what sits on top of the supports is an oak block about 2” 
thick, 8” wide, and 16” long.  That is the mast step.  Mounted on top of the 
mast step is an aluminum box that the mast sits in, i.e. the mast box.





2). I've read the very helpful documents about others who have taken on this 
task.  They have used GPO-3 or other non wood materials.  I would like to use 
epoxy coated hardwood because I'm much more comfortable shaping the wood to fit 
in.  If it lasts 20 years I'll be more that happy.  The original plywood lasted 
40 so I would think it should.  My question is, what type of wood?  I was 
thinking White oak or Mahogany.

 

I’d think you’d want something super hard.  See 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test.  I considered Ipe and Cumaru 
for new cabintop handrails for Grenadine, but went with traditional teak in the 
end.  Both Ipe and Cumaru are very hard woods, oily which is good for water 
repellency, and less expensive than teak.  But caveat emptor, I’m not expert on 
woods and woodworking.





3). How important is it that the 3 new pieces go all the way to the keel?  Of 
the 3 current supports only the forward most support went all the way to the 
base of the bilge, the other two had enough space between them and the bottom 
of the bilge to pass a large diameter bilge hose through.  I'm not sure if that 
was original or if one of the PO's modified them to run the hose.  There were 
many failed repairs to the original structure.

 

I believe the design intent was for the weight and compressive load of the mast 
to be borne by the bilge shoulders, not by the top of the keel stub.  Therefore 
I don’t think it’s super-important for the new supports to rest on the top of 
the keel stub.  Grenadine’s original supports had little contact with the top 
of the keel stub, and her new supports have none.  And it’s important to leave 
space below the supports for water to come forward to that lowest sump under 
the mast step (and for bilge plumbing to pass through).  There’s a term for 
that space, drain holes effectively, but I forget the term.



 

4). I'm thinking about putting an automatic bilge pump in between the pieces 
under the mast.  The current setup only had a hose running in there to a manual 
whale pump.  Is it a good idea to put a small automatic pump in there?  

 

Yeah I put an 1100gph Rule in there on my boat.  Described in 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM





Thanks,

 

Collin

1974 C&C 30 MK1

Libra

Baltimore

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