Several things to consider: 1. If the cables are tensioned correctly, it is nearly impossible for the chain to jump teeth on the sprocket unless the sprocket teeth are broken. You should have no more than 1/2” deflection for every 3’ of unsupported cable. Tighten as necessary. 2. Make sure both adjuster and lock nuts are on the same side of the radial wheel. Loosen the lock nut, adjust tension using the inboard nut and then lock in place with the outer nut. Putting the nuts on either side of the wheel allows the nuts to slip and lose tension. 3. Thoroughly inspect the idler assembly. Tighten idler upright positioning nuts to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel. Check for corrosion related flex in the idler plate under tension. Replace worn bronze idler axles with stainless pins and check bearings or bushings for wear and side to side play. 4. Cables and chain should align on the sprocket with equal lengths on each side. Mark the center of the chain with a sharpie marker and align with the Turks head knot or king spoke and wheel shaft key. If it shifts position, the chain is hopping teeth on the sprocket and the sprocket should be replaced. Those are really the only variables since the sprocket is keyed to the wheel shaft and the radial wheel is keyed to the rudder post. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 23, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Confusing and concerning. Whatever it is, be sure to get it sorted out. > Anything problematic with the steering can't be good. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > >> On Jan 23, 2018 8:55 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> Hello all, >> >> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... >> >> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the >> wheel is centered. I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came >> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port. By the way, were >> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. After installing my >> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to >> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment >> bolts through the radial drive wheel. This required jumping the chain 1 or >> 2 notches on the wheel sprocket. >> >> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to >> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard. During these >> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be >> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce >> the feel of the wheel. I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out >> sailing. >> >> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a >> little loose, and tightened those. >> >> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the >> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on >> the sprocket. >> >> Thoughts? >> Bruce Whitmore >> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" >> Madiera Beach, FL >> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) >> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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