Mike:
In my case, in order to access the dark stained veneer, I had to remove 6 coats of Ultimate Sole....used a paint stripper in the affected taped off area(s).

I had dark stain in my teak and holy floor boards from water intrusion on the 'sides'.....genius here painted the bottom of the floor boards with West System resin (3 -4 coats) but forgot the sides on two edges of 2 of my floor boards....result over 10 years, water got in the sides and....I didn't like the look....I researched and as another here said, treat area with oxalic acid....I couldn't source any here (sure it's around but I gave up looking) so mixed a litre of warm water,  3 tablespoons of TSP and 4 ounces of liquid ammonia, soaked the affected area for a few minutes and then gently rubbed with fine steel wool (000 Grade).....let dry a while and repeated process a few times.    Most of my stain came out.  Not perfect but don't overlook good!

When I bought the boat, the dinette table, which is teak veneer finished, had a big dark water stain which I totally removed by the same method.  Now turned out to be a perfect job!

Flush the affected area with water after each application and rubbing with steel wool to get a fresh start on the next treatment if you choose to do this.....probably the same process if you can find oxalic acid.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-11-01 2:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The interior of Persistence has a lot of varnished teak and the finish has generally held up very well in the 31 years since it was applied in 1987.  However we are beginning to notice a few spots that may or may not have been due to water damage at a some point

In one location there is a black stain in the wood under the varnish.  I have sanded the surface finish away and the black goes into the wood some. This is a marine ply teak section so is likely a thin veneer so sanding through this surface stain is not really an option.  I am thinking of using something like mineral spirits and have read also that toothpaste and baking soda scrubbed with a toothbrush may help.  This stain is obviously from past water intrusion.  The varnish looked good but the stain was on underlying teak.

A second issue we are noting in several areas is a chalky yellowing of the varnish in small patchy sections.  Am suspecting this may also be due to water damage and it appears to be a discoloration of the varnish more than the underlying teak veneer.  Initial light sanding removed a lot of this but after applying a thinned coat of varnish it is apparent that more prep work is or was needed.  Have been considering continued light sanding, also perhaps paint thinner and fine steel wool or even the above mentioned toothpaste and baking soda scrub.  What is the collective wisdom on the cause of this type of varnish failure (water?) and the best way to get to bare wood without damaging the underlying thin veneer?

Although  this is a Carol Marine built boat rather than built by C&C I am confident many on this list have encountered these issues and come up with excellent ideas for the best results

Thanks

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

… and for the C&C connection …

Former family boats

1974 Paceship P23 (C&C designed)

1981 C&C 36

1979 Niagara 26 (Hinterhoeller designed and built)



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