Instead of modifications to the strut, why not consider changing the placement of the strut. Due to the curvature of the hull a 1/2 inch movement aft may give a surprising improvment to the situation. A shaft coupler/vibration dampener will add about 2 inches of length. More movement than that might necessitate a longer shaft. A longer shaft is probably cheaper and more available than a modified strut.
Of course, you could go with a shorter strut placed closer to the log but be careful to consider the swing radius of the prop. Josh Muckley S /V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 12:52 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Thanks for sharing your thoughts. > > Mechanic says shaft to engine alignment is achievable but the issue is > that, with the strut too long, the shaft is not parallel to the log and so > dripless packing alignment is skewed. > -- > > Tim Rutherford > > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > > Tampa, FL > > > On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 8:25 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Tim >> >> >> >> You might wish to start with having and experienced engine specialist see >> if the shaft can be aligned within tolerances with the existing in place >> strut. You would get a pretty clear idea of what is needed at that point >> >> >> >> Mike >> >> Persistence >> >> 1987 Frers 33 #16 >> >> Halifax, NS >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim >> Rutherford via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, January 17, 2019 1:23 AM >> *To:* cnc-list >> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and >> Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB >> >> >> >> Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I >> think the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and >> offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too. >> >> >> >> It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too >> long, among other things. >> >> >> >> The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the >> angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than >> an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an >> angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit! The center-line of the >> strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log. >> When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm >> thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and >> build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure. >> >> >> Tim Rutherford >> >> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé >> >> Tampa, FL >> >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne <stephenltho...@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane >> >> >> >> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Update. >> >> >> >> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's >> carbon stator and hard against the forward end of the cutless bearing.This >> all makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and >> is reflected in the shaft wear patterns. >> >> >> >> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new >> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut. >> >> >> >> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way >> back. >> >> >> >> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the >> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination >> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that >> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit) too. The >> face was also scored and it was worn off-center. >> >> >> >> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan >> is to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then >> shim the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft >> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes >> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next >> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut >> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base >> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support >> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill >> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up. >> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then >> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant. >> >> >> >> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the >> bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but >> that's a different thread! >> >> >> >> Any shared experience is always welcomed! >> >> >> >> -- >> Tim Rutherford >> >> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé >> >> Tampa, FL >> >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford < >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really >> appreciated! >> >> >> >> -- >> Tim Rutherford >> >> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé >> >> Tampa, FL >> >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it. It was a >> straightforward job. I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the >> nuts. >> >> >> >> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 >> fastener holes on the underside. This lets the sealant form an o-ring >> around the fastener. I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant. I recall I >> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts. >> >> >> >> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, >> sanded and painted. >> >> >> >> The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed >> without any further ado. The lack of vibration after completion indicates >> that the job was successful. If there had been any vibration, I would have >> done an alignment. >> >> >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Touche' 35-1#83 >> >> Mandevile, LA >> >> >> >> On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and >> externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base >> although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on >> the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your >> thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks >> in the fairing. >> >> >> >> From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and >> bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with >> a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is >> required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and >> replace, seal, and re-fair. >> >> >> >> My questions are: >> >> 1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is >> necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft >> slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log >> and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I >> can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more >> time than money, so DIY work is preferred. >> >> >> >> 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan >> final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands >> cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an >> independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment. >> >> >> >> 2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the >> method of application? >> >> >> >> The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of >> clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at >> Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar >> mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound >> like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop >> speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I >> purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of >> motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit, >> and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing. >> >> >> >> Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something >> similar. All help is appreciated. >> >> -- >> Tim Rutherford >> >> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé >> >> Tampa, FL >> >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com >> 813 748 4888 cel/text >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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