That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the keel 
bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was about 6 
AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how it gets 
from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped aluminum plate 
idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt nut since they were 
recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to re-tighten.  That is why I 
thought it would be easier to put a second nut on top and tighten the nut onto 
the plate.  I can get that tight enough with a pipe or adjustable wrench.    I 
am not sure which is cheaper/easier; renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a 
second nut, but if I can find a nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone 
know of a source?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mine was like Chuck's.  
> 
> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily 
> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was 
> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and 
> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a 
> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the tap 
> must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up 
> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.  The 
> hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This would 
> have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.  I still 
> recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS bolt for 
> anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
> 
> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground plate 
> out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a keel bolt. 
>  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang I drilled 
> and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in place with a 
> nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the nut another.
> 
> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly with 
> no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths bolt 
> through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to hold the 
> new ground wire terminal.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> David,
> 
> Find the other end under the mast step. 
> 
> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4" x 20 
> stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long battery 
> cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt. 
> 
> 
> 
> CS
> 
> 
> 
>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 
>> 
>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my 
>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of 
>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a 
>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt? I 
>> have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would be 
>> if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and then 
>> put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may be 
>> moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?   
>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?  An 
>> earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to 
>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do 
>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
>  
> 
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