The narrow and shallow bilges of these C&Cs makes wiring a challenge.  The
relatively short wires provided with typical bilge pumps doesn't help
either.

If you absolutely cannot get the wires to reach high enough (just below the
floor boards) then solder and adhesive heat shrink is the best option.  I
would use extra long pieces of heat shrink too.  I'm sure there is probably
a spec but I usually use enough heat shrink to extend 1/4 to 3/8ths inch
over each side of insulation.  In a case like this I would push for 1 inch
or at least the length of the splice.  The splice should be mechanically
sound such that it is difficult to pull apart even without solder.  Look up
lineman splice or wester union splice.  When done correctly the twist of
the strand in the 2 wires lay together such that it becomes difficult to
differentiate them.  Basically parallel instead of perpendicular.  If you
are extending the wires anyway then you would probably be advised to extend
them well clear of the bilge.  Consider future repairs by leaving extra
loops of wire.  Even if the solder connection survives the pump and switch
are unlikely to last more than 3 or 4 years.

In the case of joining 3 wires the only BEST way to do it is with adhesive
heat shrink ring terminals and a terminal board.  They even make jumpers
for terminal boards.  Unlikr radio shack or auto terminal boards, a proper
marine terminal board will not be made of corrosive materials.  Proper
marine *terminals* will be tinned so as to not corrode.  Proper marine wire
will be tinned however the cut end exposes the raw copper.  Using adhesive
heat shrink seals the water out of the terminal preventing the raw copper
wire inside the terminal from corroding.  A little dielectric grease on the
rings, screws, and terminal board contacts can help ensure that any tinning
that is damaged by the screw will remain protected.

My mast wiring terminates in the overhead.  The bilge is less than
optimal.  A terminal box with glands for each wire may help in your
situation.  Absolutely consider the above mentioned heat shrink ring
terminals and dielectric grease.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 4:52 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No and No.
>
> Both of these will potentially cause stray current leakage into bilge
> water, which can eat metal very fast.
>
> Usually I don’t solder DC power wires, but my bilge pump wires are
> soldered and heat-shrinked to be totally waterproof where they are exposed
> to water. I would also move that junction block up higher.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 09, 2019 4:47 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wiring advice
>
>
>
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
> area (bilge) of the boat.
>
>
>
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
>
> [image: BSP Clear Seal 3-Way Splice Connectors]
>
>
>
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>
>
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
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>
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