I second Water Witch. We switched to that 4 seasons ago and it has worked perfectly.
The only thing to watch out for is wet slime buildup on the switch will cause it to be fooled and run. Quick wipe off and good for several more months. Installation is simpler than a traditional float switch and it is not constantly testing like an automatic bilge pump. Mike Persistence Halifax, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PM To: C&C Cc: ALAN BERGEN Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring advice I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's the link for Defender Industries: https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.facebook.com_SVCallisto&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s&s=xbdKQckZuE1Fo0h0Fp4MJozxYMNraCKCyWVjoIH0VWU&e=> On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector. No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3 way connection. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area (bilge) of the boat. 1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3 way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution. <2024633WY121.jpg> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK way to set up mast wiring in a wet area? Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT <pastedGraphic.tiff> _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 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