I second Water Witch.  We switched to that 4 seasons ago and it has worked 
perfectly.

The only thing to watch out for is wet slime buildup on the switch will cause 
it to be fooled and run.  Quick wipe off and good for several more months. 
Installation is simpler than a traditional float switch and it is not 
constantly testing like an automatic bilge pump.

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float 
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's the 
link for Defender Industries: 
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there is 
a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've ignored 
it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer trip in a few 
weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so I can have less 
water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.facebook.com_SVCallisto&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s&s=xbdKQckZuE1Fo0h0Fp4MJozxYMNraCKCyWVjoIH0VWU&e=>


On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed 
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are 
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to 
the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an 
adhesive heat shrink butt connector.

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3 way 
connection.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
(bilge) of the boat.

1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient 
to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the 
bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way fittings 
from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink 
attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part of the 
fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, especially for 
a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the logic of a sealed 
connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the past I used a larger 
crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems 
like a better solution.
<2024633WY121.jpg>

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast 
wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

<pastedGraphic.tiff>

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