Thanks  Josh Muckley!  You definitely pointed me in the right direction.
Now I just have to do it.

Christian Planton
Peer Gynt
C&C 34 1980
Saugatuck, CT


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On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:00 PM <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:  The "oopstang" or deck tie down brackets - pics -boat
>       noise (Dennis C.)
>    2. Re:  The "oopstang" or deck tie down brackets - pics
>       (dwight veinot)
>    3. Re:  Temp Gauge diagram or replacement (Josh Muckley)
>    4. Re:  Cutter/ Solent (David Risch)
>    5.  Hatch Springs... (David Risch)
>    6. Re:  Hatch Springs... (Joel Aronson)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
> To: CnClist <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 20:47:52 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List The "oopstang" or deck tie down brackets - pics
> -boat noise
> Like Josh said, get used to it.  Don't focus on it.  The Admiral and I
> sleep well on the boat with halyards slapping, wires whacking, etc.
> BUT...one strange unusual noise and we're both instantly awake.
>
> I'm staying on Touche' tonight.  Of course the air conditioner is running
> for some of that "white noise".  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019, 8:14 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sleeping on board any boat in our size range is simply a noisy effort.
>> My best advice is to get used to it.  You might try ear plugs and a fan for
>> "white noise".
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 07:38:58 -0300
> Subject: Re: Stus-List The "oopstang" or deck tie down brackets - pics
> I don’t see any of these deck tie downs on my 1974 35MKII and definitely
> no evidence of the plates on the deck. I will have a more careful look
> inside. After 45 years the deck seems still to be strongly attached to the
> hull and after heavy rain lately I am happy to report no leaks and i hear
> no creaking at the bulkheads. The mast does oscillate or pump a bit in
> strong winds on the mooring with about 1000 pounds on the backstay.
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 7:34 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Got to boat and took pics of the deck tie downs ("oopstngs").
>>
>> This pic shows the two tie down plates on deck.  The location corresponds
>> to the forward and aft bulkheads of the starboard side hanging locker.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-5OxL14w1dKN8fI251y8St2gRxSgZTF6/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Closeup of one of the plates.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-2IpySrKOwYvoDlqE1bLMCskCg-bEBpl/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Forward tie down bracket inside locker.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-28TGUSEiFHeXLbdvBr8qPYVrZZKxDYT/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Aft tie down bracket inside locker.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I1zhWdhXU7fF7-t6hRHhBU7oTQxk7_p6/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> As Rob Ball said, the bulkheads are floating.  They are held by the tie
>> down brackets and fit into a groove in the headliner.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 08:20:29 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Temp Gauge diagram or replacement
> The selection of gages is almost endless and with Amazon you can see them
> all side by side for comparison.  Start there.  Do you want digital or
> analog?  Do you want it to have an alarm?  You should probably have it
> include the sensor.  Once you have it picked out with a sensor you'll know
> what thread pattern is needed at the engine.
>
> Something like this will probably get you on the right track.
> Baosity 52mm 2 inch Waterproof IP67 Marine Boat Yacht Water Temperature
> Gauge Temp Sensor
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFF59SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tLzoDbFZZ1CHK
>
> There are numerous MIP/FIP plugs and nipples coming off the water
> pump/thermostat manifold.  You be able to just pull a pipe plug and use a
> reducing bushing to neck it down to fit your sensor.  Or you may have to
> modify and existing nipple arrangement by adding a tee fitting to
> accommodate the sensor.  There should be a temperature switch already
> plumbed on the thermostat housing and this particular penetration is a good
> choice for adding a tee.  For exposure to salt water there is a need to use
> "red brass" or bronze.  In this case the glycol coolant is the only liquid
> contact so regular hardware aisle brass fittings are fine.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/10fS6iWvanlFeEokae20DjTLnkQt5owp9/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Let me know if you need additional pictures.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019, 1:16 PM Christian Planton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> My heat gauge does not work but it is also inside on the interior
>> bulkhead. I am looking to replace it and move it were I can see it in the
>> cockpit. It is on a Yanmar 2GM20F
>>
>> First I would like to see a diagram of the original to see if it is just
>> wired incorrectly.
>>
>> Second any suggestions on a replacement?
>>
>> Thank you
>> Christian
>> C&C 34 1980
>>
>> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
>> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
>> address plant...@wiltonps.org.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: David Risch <davidrisc...@msn.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 14:13:42 +0000
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutter/ Solent
> I put a solent stay on Corsair (1981 40-2) for the storm jib.  Works
> great.   Call me for details.  401419 4650
> ------------------------------
> *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 23, 2019 4:41:03 PM
> *To:* cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cutter/ Solent
>
> David,
>
> Two concerns:  The spin halyard should be above the headstay and will
> chafe.  I would use either a jib halyard or topping lift.  I'm not sure the
> cleats can take the load.  The load will effectively be on the windward
> cleat.  I would check for adequate backing over a wide area.
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 4:34 PM David Lewis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I purchased my beautiful Landfall 35 3 months ago and I am preparing her
>> to cross the Atlantic, which I have done several times. I want to put a
>> staysail, to be used as storm jib, on her and to my mind the best way is to
>> fit a temporary dyneema bridle between the two foreward mooring cleats and
>> the forestay turnbuckle. Connect the tack of the staysail to that and use
>> the spinnaker halyard to hoist  I would have the staysail made with a
>> dyneema luff so I do not have to fit a a baby stay. This obviates the need
>> to strengthen the foredeck and put a baby stay in.
>> I would be interested in any thoughts from the group and other ideas.She
>> leaks like a sieve of course but what a wonderful yacht.
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> David
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: David Risch <davidrisc...@msn.com>
> To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 14:32:11 +0000
> Subject: Stus-List Hatch Springs...
> So I have two coiled hatch springs which the hatch hinge pin capture on my
> 1981rebuilt Atkins and Hoyle forward hatch.
>
> They are there to prevent the hatch from bouncing off the deck when it was
> flung fully open for chute drops.
>
> For the life of me I can't figure out how to install them to function as
> intended.
>
> Anybody have any thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 10:42:07 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch Springs...
> I can send a picture of mine this weekend.  One little arm rests on the
> base, the other on the edge of the hatch.  They get compressed as the hatch
> opens.
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 10:32 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So I have two coiled hatch springs which the hatch hinge pin capture on
>> my 1981rebuilt Atkins and Hoyle forward hatch.
>>
>> They are there to prevent the hatch from bouncing off the deck when it
>> was flung fully open for chute drops.
>>
>> For the life of me I can't figure out how to install them to function as
>> intended.
>>
>> Anybody have any thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> _______________________________________________
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
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