My read is that the shunt is in the ammeter itself.   Thus all the current
must travel to/from the alternator through the ammeter to the user(s).
Most ammeters these days use an external shunt and only small signal wires
to/from the ammeter.

The recommended fix looks fine.  He's a knowledgeable guy with lots of good
advice.

If you want an ammeter in the engine panel, swap it out for one with an
external shunt.

Also, do you want to measure the amps from the alternator or amps being
used by the boat?  Two different things.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 4:04 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello from already snowy Michigan.
> Seems the 1990 M-35 I have for power in my boat is, well, not really
> designed well in the wiring department. I have read stuff describing it as
> "dangerous" to "fatal" and worse.  There appear to be two related issues:
>  First, that the harness is not capable of the loads to and from the
> alternator, ammeter and starter, (plus glow plugs) and two, that the light
> blue 'trailer harness' connectors fail and burn.  I've read several posts
> at different websites, and a great fix explained here:
> https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/
>
> I wonder who on our expert list has tackled this problem.  I am
> considering fixing what I have, or purchasing a new gauge panel and all
> wiring. You can do that from Catalina Direct and others.
> Any experience or opinions from fellow Universal owners?
>
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
>
> *Daydream C&C 37+  *
>
>
>
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