Mike, That. Is. One. Beautiful. Cabin sole.
Well worth the effort I’d say. I’m going to look into that 1/2 router edge that you made. My early version of the 37’ doesn’t have the nice liner edges that yours does but it may be an important technique. My model simply drops in, butts up to the joiner work and is finished teak 1/4-round moulding. Questions: what is the substrate that you used? Did you screw the panels in like was done on my model? It’s a design “feature” that I have not been wild about and am thinking about some other fastening system when I put my cabin sole back in. Having been exposed to new boats with flooring systems like yours I have to think that it will hold up better that the original teak and holly 3/4” ply. Well done. Regards, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:16 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Bruce, Rod, Et Al > > Here is a link to some pictures of my Lonseal cabin sole install. Cabin Sole > <https://photos.app.goo.gl/ctnYgSd1M8tPAfUe7> > > Sorry Rod I down race so I can’t answer your questions. My opinion; the > product itself is a superior vinyl product and with proper installation there > should be no issue. That being said if you drop something the Lonseal will > hold up well but the substrate may dent and be visible. > > Some tips > Design substrate (plywood) with as few seams as possible. > Router bottom outsides edges with ½” router > Apply a minimum of 2 coats of epoxy to all pieces on all sides > Roll out the Lonseal on a solid flat surface (living room floor) upside down > then lay plywood upside down in the pattern it will be applied. Cut Lonseal > at least 1” larger than required on all side. Makes it easier to install and > easier to trim after glue is set. > Tape joints like you would with drywall. I didn’t. > Use j-roller instead of recommended 100 lb. roller. See mod I made to > j-roller so I could apply more weight > Follow gluing instructions to the letter especially the off gassing. I > didn’t and some bubbles occurred that couldn’t be rolled out. > Use router with edge trimmer to cut bilge ports. > > I was lucky that my sole was a bit narrower than the LonSeal. Just ensure > the pieces in the v-berth and the small piece in the galley lines all line > up. Same thing for the bilge access ports. I had to make a small lengthwise > cut around the mast truck to fit around the centreboard tube. It can’t be > seen unless you really look for it. > > Mike >
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