Josh,
Many Thanks for your detailed response! Much appreciated. I am definitely gonna 
put the Netflix series  on hold while I figure out how this all works. 😊

Ciao !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:44 PM
To: C&C List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Force 10 heater removal

Fiberglass repair videos are provided by Jamestown Distributors and/or 
Boatworks Today.

-In general you'll want to epoxy a backer on the bottom of the deck to hold the 
filler in place.  A piece of G10 might be a good choice.  1/8th inch would 
probably be thick enough but thicker would be fine too.
-With the backer epoxied in place remove the core all around the sides of hole. 
 Go as far back as possible.  Unless this area has already been filled out with 
epoxy.
-Wet the entire cavity with unthickened epoxy.  You can inject with a syringe 
up in the cavity and then use a brush to spread that which runs back into the 
"hole".  If you have too much use the syringe to suck out the extra.  Give the 
epoxy a chance to "kick" but don't wait so long that it cures.
-Inject thickened epoxy (consistenc of peanut butter up into the now wetted 
cavity.  Thickened epoxy in the tube is available as thiox? and Six10.  Or you 
can make your own.  If you are not using a fill material such as wood then just 
pump the hole full of thickened epoxy.  Be careful to use really long cure 
times so that it doesn't overheat and cause a runaway reaction.
-If you want a filler then just smooth the epoxy into a vertical plane along 
the edges of the hole.  This is where you would pick up if this step was 
already done during the chimney installation.
-Select a filler material or none at all. Cousa board is a fiberglass sponge 
type material that seems to be a good choice.  Cut it to fit and install in the 
hole while the previous epoxy is still at least tacky but less cured is fine 
too.
-soak down the filler with un-thickened epoxy and let it cure.
-with a grinder, feather the edges of the whole 4 inches back.
-Cut fiberglass cloth in concentric circular shapes such that they fill the 
feathered area.  Each layer will layup as 1/16 inch thick so cut each one 
accordingly (appropriately 1" shorter radius for each layer.
-MASK!
-brush on some epoxy then apply the smallest bottom layer which should extend 
about 1" over the joint.  Brush more on until the whole thing is clear and 
evenly wetted with epoxy.
-allow it to kick for a few minutes.
-Repeat for the remaining layers.
-let it all fully cure.
-wash off the amine blush with soap water and a scrubby pad
-sand flush with a DA or orbital sander
-if you need to add thickness to level the deck area then you can fill 
depressions with thickened epoxy or if the whole thing is deep you can add 
another layer of glass.
-cure, clean, sand, leave with 80 grit for a tooth for the top coat.
-easiest non-skid is probably gonna be kiwi-grip.

I probably forgot something along the way.  Sorry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:46 John Conklin via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during  5 straight days of torrential rain  
Here in in Oriental.
Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running along 
coach roof to circular block  creating a water trap.
Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall  but finding 
its way into roof liner  and traveling mid ship leaking from headliner at that 
spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could be really bad news 
and cause unseeen damage  if I don’t seal this up. I want it out ! Anyone want 
this baby or ebay or ??
As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy  Curious on  the process for fillIng this 
size  hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+-  which also sees foot traffic 
think that’s what happen fee good kicks
Thanks !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com<http://www.flirtingwithfire.com>

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