Wade,

Look at the picture of a 500 series racor in the link below.  The factory
top has a t handle which is used to tighten the lid.  The vacuum gauge
which Joe linked replaces that t-handle.  The t arms are not used to sense
pressure - just for tightening the lid.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/172954061164

BTW: these 500 series are notorious for being easily over tightened which
warps the lid and causes leaks.

The 500 series is 60gph which would be close to 60 times the flow capacity
required for any one of our engines.  Even with a 2 micron filter I would
not expect much if any vacuum being formed, though it should be noted that
the vacuum represents the effort required to "lift" the fuel out of the
tank AND the effort required to suck the fuel through the filter.  Yanmar
typically rates their engines for up to 10 feet of lift.  Diesel is 34" per
psi so 10 feet = ~3.5 psi.  Even with no filter element installed the
vacuum  for 10 feet of vertical lift of diesel fuel would amount to 100
inH2O, 3.5psia or 7 inHg.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:03 Wade Glew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Hi Joe
> Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the
> fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the
> T go?  What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to
> change filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33-2
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can
>> do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced
>> warning when you do need to change one.
>>
>> Be official:
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
>>
>> Cockpit mount with light:
>>
>> https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ (also
>> can be used for manifold vacuum)
>>
>> Cheap:
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S
>>
>>
>> Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>> On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron
>> primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as
>> some Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can see it
>> through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck
>> to the bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That said, the
>> boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run
>> 150 gallons or so of fuel through the boat in the last 4 years.
>>
>> I change my Racor every year, and I used to change the one on the engine
>> every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let the engine mounted one go
>> another year.  We still get a fine layer of black "grit" at the bottom of
>> the racor over the year, but it does not appear to hinder the running of
>> the engine.
>>
>> I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year than risk the engine
>> shutting down as I go through a bridge opening with 3 kts. of current.
>>
>> To each their own,
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>>
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