On the subject of wood choices:

1. Yes oak, but not red oak, which is the stuff most readily available around 
here. Red oak is not rot resistant. 

2. I have recently found out that Black Locust is very hard and rot-resistant. 
I have a small tree which I have to take down but is don't know if it is large 
enough to produce wood with those characteristics. I need new handrails and I 
was thinking of using that. Does anyone know if it has to be heartwood or does 
that matter in the case of this species? 



---- Doug Robinson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
Yep, been there, done that and got the T shirt.  First time I noted the 
problem was when attending my first Owners meeting Rob Mazza asked the 
assembled owners how many had replaced the mast step and six or eight 
hands went up.   OMG wots this?   Second time on Saturday Morning before 
heading out to the YYC Level regatta we couldn't get the rig to tune.  
Damn mast step collapsed so the racing crew hunkered the mast up and we 
unscrewed the block and ran off to Scotty our shipwright in the yard and 
of course he had a block of oak in inventory for just such an occasion.  
He and our ship's carpenter (and mainsail trimmer by avocation) slipped 
in the new block and screwed it in place. It was then we observed that 
he drilled a limber hole in the block under the mast and swaged in a 
stainless drain pipe with the end knurled over to drain the stuff that 
comes down the mast.  (Lesson #1).  Whole procedure took 45 minutes and 
we converted a DNS to a late start and DNF for the first race.  That was 
1990 and we have since replaced it again, this time soaking the block 
for months in preservation chemicals.  (Lesson #2)

The real problem comes when the stringers under the block collapse due 
to the fact that they are not encased in fiberglass on the bottom.  Then 
you have to cut out the cabin sole and re glass in new stringers (and 
upgrade the sole to a nicer teak and holley deck).  That project would 
be above my paygrade and I would have some of the C&C alumni in the club 
tackle that.  I have seen it done once in our yard.  Meantime make damn 
sure the bilge stays dry and fit a garboard plug to keep that way while 
up on the cradle for the winter.  (Lesson #3)

It's no big deal and we have had discussions about casting an aluminum 
pillow block but its just easier and faster to fit a new oak block.

Doug Robinson

On 8/31/20 1:41 PM, Lee Goss via CnC-List wrote:
> Dear C&C List members,
>
> I have a C&C29 MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the 
> mast sank about 4 or 5 inches!
>
> We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But 
> we won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.
>
> We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of 
> the season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best 
> way to do this?
>
> Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast 
> step or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate 
> it. At this point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't 
> know precisely what we're going to need to make the repair.
>
> For reference: here's photos of the damage: 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA
>
> Many thanks in advance for any help.
> Lee


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