I didn't keep track of hours. The deck repair was a weeks or two of evenings and weekends. Then another two weeks of sanding, prepping and painting and more time for replacing the windows and reinstalling all the hardware and life lines. Including rewiring the mast, adding radar, designing, building and installing a new bow roller assembly, etc. the whole refit took me about 4 months.
On Thu, Aug 26, 2021, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Wow, looks like you did a great job, looks nice. > > How long did it take you to do that whole operation? > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, August 26, 2021 8:27 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Andy Frame; Nathan Post > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core > > > > Agreed with others on not using expanding foam for this. I personally > used balsa wood to replace the rotted core as it has the best strength to > weight ratio and is pretty easy to work with. There are structural foams > that can be used but most do not have quite as good mechanical properties > as balsa wood. My other tip is that where you know you will be putting a > hole through it can be good to go with solid laminate in that area instead > so you don't have to carve out the balsa and fill with epoxy later. > Especially at structural points (bulkhead bolts for example). When I did > this on my C&C 34, I used 1/2" G10 plate. Roughen both sides and bond in > place of the balsa. Complete the lamination and painting and then cut or > drill for the fitting. Adds a little weight and a lot of strength. > > > > Some photos showing what I did to repair the core in my deck in 2020 are > here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7 These show the G10 > plates used where penetrations are made later for the bulkhead attachments > and the fan in the head. I didn't do that around the chain plate and > instead just filled an area with thickened epoxy but on hindsight using G10 > there too would have been better and will avoid the problem happening again > in the future. > > > Note, in some cases, I rebuilt the deck laminate from scratch and in > others I laminated the original back in place and then created a > tapered grove and laminated the two parts of the top deck back together for > strength using narrow strips of fiberglass. I used weights to hold the G10 > in place while bonding it with thickened epoxy to the lower skin but then > used a vacuum system when doing the larger lamination areas after doing a > wet layup. > > > > Nathan > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
