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> have the sleeve attached and shrunk,hi Paul-- first of all, I built two stands, one with a pin that went thru the wing tip light hole, and the second with a bracket that mounted to the spar attach points, the bracket then was also pinned to a stand. this enabled me to rotate the wing and work on both sides without any wait for drying time. I slipped the cover over the wing and poly tak'd the fabric to the area around the light to hold it in place.Hi Joe:
Did you have any trouble keeping your seams straight? Also how did you
get the leading edge glued down using the envelopes?
let me back up here and say that in following the poly fabric instructions, I first brushed on a coat of poly brush to the entire leading edge. also brushed on a coat of poly tak on the bottom of the concave false nose ribs. after this dryed I slipped on the envelope and taking all wrinkles out by hand, I then clamped the
fabric to the entire aileron well edges. next I brushed poly tak over the pre coated concave false nose ribs to soak thru and cement this area. after this I poly tak cemented the fabric along the clamped down aileron edge . did the same along the root rib.
after this was dryed, I then shrunk at around 250/275 deg starting with the sewed seam, then the outside areas alternately working my way toward the center. this kept the sewed seam fairly straight.
next brushed on 2 cross coats of poly brush the first which soaked thru and attaching itself to the precoated leading edge.
at this point I was pleased with the results and the drum taught finish.
fabric was next fastened per poly fabric inst as was insp rings.
>second a double row with the second row going in the oppositeregards
>direction with no gaps showing,
GOOD, this is how I did the first bottom edge
This is how the Ercoupe Service Manual shows it being done.
thanks for taking the time to confirm my process !!
JoeC
N99621
Cheers:Paul
N2273H
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