-Caveat Lector-

Euphorian spotted this on the Guardian Unlimited Observer site and thought you should 
see it.

To see this story with its related links on the Guardian Unlimited Observer site, go 
to http://www.observer.co.uk

The men in black spark a double conspiracy theory
Tim Judah
Saturday August 31 2002
The Guardian


There has been much grumbling in Tehran over the summer about the men in black. Shiny 
black Toyota Land Cruisers that is. As if from nowhere and in brand new cars a new 
unit of the morality police, who check that girls and boys out together are brothers 
and sisters, or married - or beat them up - have become the bane of city life. 
Iranians love a good conspiracy theory and there are several doing the rounds. The 
first is that their Land Cruisers are, in fact, vehicles the UN gave Iran to help it 
fight drug trafficking. The second, almost universally believed, is that in every car 
there are four men, of which only the driver is an Iranian. The other three are 
believed to be Lebanese or Palestinians. The theory goes that Iranian hardliners, keen 
to crush any hint of liberalism or libido, but failing to find enough local enforcers, 
are now calling in debts from the various radical groups they have funded over the 
years.

Like a virgin ... well almost

Iranian surgeons have always been dab hands at plastic surgery, and uptown girls are 
not ashamed to flaunt the fact they have just been fixed up. Hence the remarkable 
number of young women on the streets with bandaged noses. Satellite television is, of 
course, illegal, and hence an absolute must-have here. One regular show features an 
Iranian plastic surgeon broadcasting on an exile station from the US, in which he 
fields live questions phoned in from Iran about 'Tomi Toks' also known as Tummy Tucks. 
Of course, some of the surgeons' art must, by necessity, be of the more discreet 
variety. No longer a virgin? For a mere $50 (£30) ladies can be restored to their 
pristine state, technically speaking, at least.

Let's drink to the booze ban

One day they'll make films about the prohibition years here. Alcohol was banned in the 
wake of the 1979 Islamic revolution, but the mullahs have never succeeded in drying 
this country out. However, Tehranis note with wry interest that over the past year the 
amount of alcohol available on the black market has risen dramatically. Like Dutch 
boys at their dykes the ayatollahs are vainly trying to plug gushing streams of 
Russian vodka, Belgian beer, Mexican tequila and Scotch. In fact, so much of the hard 
stuff is now available that many are convinced that, far from trying to prevent the 
import of alcohol, the mullahs are, in fact, the biggest smugglers of all. They also 
note that, since last year, previously banned medicinal alcohol has gone back on sale 
in pharmacies. People have been buying so much, however, that it is usually out of 
stock. It is popular, says one source, because 'being government approved you know the 
quality is OK and you have less of a hangover'.

 In the name of God, magic

Any foreigner who overstays his Iranian visa has to go through the Kafkaesque 
labyrinth of the immigration police bureaucracy. This includes jostling for space in 
the courtroom benches with handcuffed prisoners. Still, apart from getting the exit 
visa, nothing matches the satisfaction of securing the permission, which allows you to 
begin the process. Like winning the Get Out of Jail Free card in Monopoly, the 
equivalent here is having a top bureaucrat scrawling an instruction to minions on your 
letter of supplication. You know you are halfway home when you see those magic words: 
'In the name of God - do it!'

Copyright Guardian Newspapers Limited

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