Hi Dave,

The general view is that you need to reach from the antenna feed point 
to where ever you are going to match the open wire line to a 50 ohm 
conjugate match so that the transmitter sees a 50 ohm resistive load (or 
close to that). So the short answer is ... yes ... you can cut it shorter.

One additional consideration is that depending upon the lowest frequency 
you will be using, you may find certain lengths of the feed line to more 
easily be matched. There have been several similar articles over the 
years in such sources as the ARRL Antenna Compendiums which describe 
certain lengths of the dipole vs. certain lengths of the feedline that 
tend to match more easily.

You would need to have more information on the length of the dipole 
portion to decide on the best length, assuming you have some choice in 
the length.

As an example, I used the sizing recommendations of W6JJZ in his ARRL 
Antenna Compendium, Volume 2 Article "The Suburban Multibander," to make 
an antenna that would work on 160. His antenna was primarily designed 
for 40 and 20 with "near misses" at 80 and 10 meters. The design he uses 
is quite useful for two main bands because the sizing of the flattop and 
the open wire feedline is such that the impedance at the antenna 
feedpoint is around 190 + j740 ohms on one band and ~ 190 - j170 ohms on 
the other. The feedline then transforms this impedance to something 
close to 50 + j0 ohms for each band. This requires a specific antenna 
length of 88.8 feet for his design and a feed line of 46.2 feet x the 
V.F. of the open wire line. The V. F. (velocity factor) should be just 
over 90% of the speed of light. As you can see for this design he used 
about 42 feet of feet line. At that point he could use a 1:1 choke balun 
and continue from there with 50 ohm coax.

What I did was double everything, so my flat top was around 180 feet and 
the feed line around 84 feet. This is about as short an antenna 
tolerable for 160 meters but still will not be optimum, but it would be 
quite good for 80 meters. The feed line worked well for me as it was 
also the right length to terminate with a 1:1 balun just outside the 
hamshack and I could finish the rest of the run into the shack with coax 
and that made it easier to take care of lightning protection.

What I would try is to get your flattop portion or inverted vee 
configuration in the best possible location for your site and then I 
would cut off the open wire line at where it was convenient to do so. 
There are so many variables with these kinds of installations so you 
just have to put it up and see how it tunes up. There are cases where 
certain lengths on certain bands will be so highly reactive that you 
might have a difficult match with very high voltages (and high losses) 
in your tuner. I know of cases where additional open wire line was 
switched in and out but personally I would just tolerate the losses in 
the tuner:)

After using open wire lines, off and on over the years, I have gone back 
to running mostly resonant multiple dipoles with one for 80 and one for 
160 fed at a common point in an inverted vee configuration. I have a 
multiband vertical with about two dozen radials (70 to 100 feet) to take 
care of the upper bands. I have found that the vertical generally 
outperforms inverted vee dipoles at 30 feet at the apex for bands 40 
meters and higher. The exception is the upper bands, particularly 6 and 
10 meters which do not work that well on the vertical.

73,

Rick, KV9U







Dave wrote:

>I know this is not an antenna forum, but hoping that all the experience
>represented here can assist me.
>
>When using a dipole antenna fed with 450-ohm ladderline, does the
>length of the feedline matter? The dipole I'm going to order comes with
>100 feet of ladderline, but I'll likely only use 40 or 50. Is it safe
>to cut off the length not needed, or will this mess things up? If I
>can't cut it, what do I do with it?
>
>Thanks in advance & 73
>Dave
>KB3MOW
>
>  
>



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