"Halo.net" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Gents......

I'm new to the list and am not sure just how to break into your 2B exchange 
with a question about a TR-4. Is there a better place to post a general 
question for the list? Thanks
Doc 
WB6WAD
  
======= At 2007-09-28, 18:04:31 you wrote: =======
>"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Hi John - K5MO,  and John, W1JA;
>
>
>Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for
>the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the
>cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is
>sometimes very noisy.  Wonder if the AC line is used
>for other things besides power (BPL) ?
>
>I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has
>been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B
>is a lot more fun to fix.
>
>Don't know where to start... 
>
>Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK)
>
>For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with
>soap and water, rinse and dry.
>sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust.
>Apply "Rust Converter" from Walmart. 
>Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer.
>Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart)
>and sand. Repeat till smooth.
>Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or
>apply with q-tip or toothpick.
>(I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match)
>
>*****IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate
>                is protected with clear spray that
>                 will cloud up if you disturb it.
>                 CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY 
>                 AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-(
>
>Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. 
>Punch holes in bottom
>of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint.  Glossy
>black #1601 really looks good
>on screws.
>
>I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front,
>sides and back of chassis.
>I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis.
>Looks kinda macho, and
>better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF
>connector with shiny ones.
>
>Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C
>clamp.
>      Will have to re-touch up case again with
>semi-flat this time :-(
>      Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking
>worse than the panel, 
>      will repaint it.  It looks easy - no lettering
>:-)
>
>Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic.
>Scrape rust with a small screwdriver.
>Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick.
>Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look
>better. 
>(ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and
>pick a good size)
>Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look
>100% better than rust.
>Super glue washers to knob.  Center carefully.
>
>Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic
>faceplate do-hicky.
>
>Dial backround:  Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510
>Ivory Satin.
>Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way.
>Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and
>spray the visible section.
>Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost
>perfectly.
>
>Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow
>teflon Superior Lubricant.
>Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings.
>
>Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts,
>LLC...Look it up on Google.
>Save the old Capacitor can.  You might want to cut it
>to replace caps on a 
>mint 2B.
>
>I think that is it.
>
>Let me know what you think.  
>Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear
>but fun (and only about $90 worth of "stuff") to make
>the 2B presentable
>and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind.
>
>I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better
>one magically appears.
>
>72/73
>
>Jim / W1FMR
>   
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>--- john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> 
>> john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
>> drakelist gang
>>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the
>> edges, chassis very 
>> pitted, chips off the front panel.
>> 
>> Works flawlessly!
>> :-)
>> 
>> John K5MO
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:
>> 
>> >"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
>> the drakelist gang
>>
>>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >Hi
>> >I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
>> >presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
>> >
>> >The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
>> >Replaced the DC filter caps
>> >Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
>> >Repaired rust on the case and front panel
>> >Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
>> >
>> >Had the radio playing absolutely super last night
>> but
>> >this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a
>> hum).
>> >Will see if works OK tonight.
>> >
>> >And someone must have banged the receiver down on
>> the
>> >main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
>> >The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is
>> turned.
>> >  Not serious but annoying.
>> >
>> >The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
>> >last
>> >night :-) wonderful !
>> >
>> >If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
>> >repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
>> >and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
>> >years in a damp basement, let me know and I
>> >will post something.
>> >
>> >The radio does not look absolutely original,
>> >but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
>> >to it.
>> >
>> >If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
>> >meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
>> >  not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.
>> >
>> >Never thought it would look as good as it does.
>> >
>> >72,
>> >
>> >jim / W1FMR
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >to be replaced if anyone has any.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
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>> 
>> 
>>
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>
>
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Halo.net
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
2007-09-28



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