Thanks for the links and tip on capacitor kit. Garey is correct my capacitor is a 4 section (100, 100, 100, 20 @ 200 WV) NOT a 5 section cap . I just may be able to get 4 of them inside the can since I don't need 5 like I originally stated. Best regards, Joe Sr. WW8X
On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 4:43 PM, <drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net> wrote: > Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to > drakelist@zerobeat.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (Garey Barrell) > 2. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (ph...@aol.com) > 3. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (Dino Papas) > 4. Re: PSK31 & B-Line Twins (Brian Koontz) > 5. Drake 2C Manaual (jsloss) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:45:36 -0400 > From: Garey Barrell <k4...@mindspring.com> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question > To: drakelist <Drakelist@zerobeat.net> > Message-ID: <4c939b30.4030...@mindspring.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Joe - > > Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps? The > original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC. Another > section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n > 3040. But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the > wild' in the early version one units. > > Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that > drop right in. I think he supplies four section caps for all versions. > > Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the > can cap terminals completely. It can be a little crowded. > > Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision! :-) > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line& > TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > <www.k4oah.com> > > > Joe Loverti wrote: > > Hi guys, > > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd > > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks > > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps > > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about > > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? > > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course, > > I'd leave the old can in place for looks. > > Thanks for you opinions in advance. > > Joe > > WW8X > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:49:38 EDT > From: ph...@aol.com > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net > Message-ID: <204190.2cfa0a7a.39c51...@aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Joe, > > You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A (both 13 and 11-tube > versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link: > > _http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/_ (http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/) > > I just re-capped one of each type using the Hayseed Hamfest kits and > they work great! Garey is correct, the can cap supplied in the kit for > either version is the same, i.e., three (3) 100 uf sections and one (1) 22 > uf > section. On some R-4A 13-tube jobs the 22 uf section isn't used, but on > others it is and the extra 22 uf electrolytic in the kit isn't needed. > You'll > have to look carefully at how yours is configured and proceed from there, > possibly even tracing the circuit to make sure you know which > electrolytics > are used and where. If you have the *ORIGINAL* manual for your radio the > schematic is probably correct, but if you have a copy of the manual > there's > a better than even chance that what the schematic shows is not exactly how > the radio is configured. > > The only real difficulty with installing the kit is unsoldering and > removing the old can. Since one of the soldered ground lugs is > practically > underneath the little transformer you'll have to unbolt the transformer > and > move it aside. One of the screws for the transformer is underneath the > PTO > assembly but you should be able to see it and get the screw head rotated > so that you can stick a small screwdriver blade into the slot to hold it > while you back off the nut holding the transformer, and later tighten the > nut > when you reinstall the transformer. > > Then all you need is a big soldering iron or gun and some braid (they > supply some with the re-cap kit) or a good solder-sucker. I used a Weller > 200/260 gun and it did OK. > > 73/arf, > > Paul, K4MSG > > > > In a message dated 9/17/2010 12:46:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > k4...@mindspring.com writes: > > Joe - > > Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps? The > original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC. Another > section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n > 3040. But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the > wild' in the early version one units. > > Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that > drop right in. I think he supplies four section caps for all versions. > > Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the > can cap terminals completely. It can be a little crowded. > > Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision! :-) > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line& > TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > <www.k4oah.com> > > > Joe Loverti wrote: > > Hi guys, > > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd > > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks > > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps > > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about > > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? > > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course, > > I'd leave the old can in place for looks. > > Thanks for you opinions in advance. > > Joe > > WW8X > > > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20100917/dfae3592/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:04:45 -0400 > From: Dino Papas <k...@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question > To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear <drakelist@zerobeat.net> > Message-ID: <8cbc56a9-ec46-4341-9cf6-5c0a3a606...@cox.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Just for everyone's info I just got done conversing with Tom at Hayseed > about kits and shipping charges. If you order multiple kits the PayPal > system will include S/H for EACH kit but as Tom pointed out there is a > maximum shipping/handling charge of $10; until he can fix the web site > system his temporary fix is to credit back the difference above $10 to the > customer. > > All this talk earlier about recapping got me to thinking about winter > projects so I'm getting Tom's 2-B, 2-C, R-4C and T-4XC kits to add to the > project queue for colder days. > > BTW, Tom has been off the list for a while but intends to return soon. > > Dino KL0S > > On 17Sep2010, at 2:49 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote: > > > Joe, > > > > You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A (both 13 and > 11-tube versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link: > > > > http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/ > > > > I just re-capped one of each type using the Hayseed Hamfest kits and > they work great! Garey is correct, the can cap supplied in the kit for > either version is the same, i.e., three (3) 100 uf sections and one (1) 22 > uf section. On some R-4A 13-tube jobs the 22 uf section isn't used, but on > others it is and the extra 22 uf electrolytic in the kit isn't needed. > You'll have to look carefully at how yours is configured and proceed from > there, possibly even tracing the circuit to make sure you know which > electrolytics are used and where. If you have the *ORIGINAL* manual for > your radio the schematic is probably correct, but if you have a copy of the > manual there's a better than even chance that what the schematic shows is > not exactly how the radio is configured. > > > > The only real difficulty with installing the kit is unsoldering and > removing the old can. Since one of the soldered ground lugs is practically > underneath the little transformer you'll have to unbolt the transformer and > move it aside. One of the screws for the transformer is underneath the PTO > assembly but you should be able to see it and get the screw head rotated so > that you can stick a small screwdriver blade into the slot to hold it while > you back off the nut holding the transformer, and later tighten the nut when > you reinstall the transformer. > > > > Then all you need is a big soldering iron or gun and some braid (they > supply some with the re-cap kit) or a good solder-sucker. I used a Weller > 200/260 gun and it did OK. > > > > 73/arf, > > > > Paul, K4MSG > > > > > > In a message dated 9/17/2010 12:46:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > k4...@mindspring.com writes: > > Joe - > > > > Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps? The > > original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC. Another > > section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n > > 3040. But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the > > wild' in the early version one units. > > > > Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that > > drop right in. I think he supplies four section caps for all versions. > > > > Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the > > can cap terminals completely. It can be a little crowded. > > > > Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision! :-) > > > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > > Glen Allen, VA > > > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line& > > TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > <www.k4oah.com> > > > > > > Joe Loverti wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd > > > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks > > > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps > > > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about > > > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? > > > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course, > > > I'd leave the old can in place for looks. > > > Thanks for you opinions in advance. > > > Joe > > > WW8X > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Drakelist mailing list > > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > _______________________________________________ > > Drakelist mailing list > > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20100917/ff305777/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:49:41 -0500 > From: Brian Koontz <br...@pongonova.net> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] PSK31 & B-Line Twins > To: Garey Barrell <k4...@mindspring.com> > Cc: drakelist <Drakelist@zerobeat.net> > Message-ID: <20100917184941.ga4...@pongonova.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:11:52AM -0400, Garey Barrell wrote: > > You are correct. That is why I said he "COULD" do that. I did it years > > ago when PSK31 was 'new', I saw something on it somewhere, found some > > software, and was on the air in about 15 minutes. :-) I used it for > > about three months, and lost interest. I guess my ADD keeps popping up, > > as I have to try everything, but once it becomes a 'plug and play' > > product I lose interest. > > <offtopic> > So what is it that you do now that satisfies your ADD urges? > </offtopic> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:43:18 -0700 > From: "jsloss" <k7...@comcast.net> > Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 2C Manaual > To: <drakelist@zerobeat.net> > Message-ID: <f25069ee81234a41a71c44c58951e...@jlsloss> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Original unmarked 2C manual, like new, for sale. $20 mailed USPS. Pls > reply off list. > > Joe k7mks > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20100917/118f104d/attachment.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 27, Issue 23 > ***************************************** >
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