Hi Paul:
Once the ball race area is all clean and dry, I apply some teflon grease
to the area. Then carefully flace the balls into the grease one at a
time using tweezers. If the frame is laying face down it helps. Same
as putting loose balls into a front wheel on a bicycle. Then let the
grease hold the balls as you slide the fhaft down thru them. Once the
shaft is holding them in, retain some tension on it as you assemble the
rear ball and screw. Congrats on getting it that far. I like the
approach of big hot iron to do thye soldering fast without heating up
the whole thing. I don't think soldering would get it too hot for the
iron. Also think proper flux in addition to cleaning and regular solder
makes it easier.
Curt
Paul Gerhardt wrote:
Got the PTO rod out today Yea! Yes, the PTO is out of the rig. I ran
the fork to the end of the screw then undid the tension adj hex screw.
Of course then the balls started to drop out and I removed the
plastic gear and it's rod by removing the 'clip washer' (not sure what
it's real name is).
Next was to reattach the rod to the 'fork'. I decided to 1st try the
'heat gun' approach with a 1400 watt industrial type heat gun rated at
800-1000F. I was going to do it outside but decided to use my
aluminum darkroom tray that I use under the Cantenna as a 'heat
shield'. I placed the rod assembly in a 8" crescent wrench and let
the rod stand vertically with the fork sitting on top. This worked OK
but the 'fork' was not quite level and needed to be heated a 2nd time
to get it closer to the proper 90 degree angle. While I had the heat
gun I decided to solder a piece of solder wick braid to the end of the
fork. I could not get the solder to flow on the fork by itself so I
used my regular small Hakko iron AND the heat gun and got the end of
the fork tinned with a small blob of solder, then the braid was put on
top and held with the solder iron and gave it another blast with the
heat gun.
Later I am going to clean off the rest of the old grease and try to
reassemble the same way. The dial shaft bits are all still intact and
I may want to disassemble it as well,
Today's question is: will I be able to get the balls back in without
taking the dial shaft apart (same as it came apart for me) or is there
a 'Better' way to get the bearing back together. Should I use a drop
of new grease or just leave some of the old grease and add a drop of
3in1 oil to it?
As far as the re-soldering goes I wonder if the heat changes the iron
parts enough to worry about. Will find out I guess....
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