Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that will start reliably and run consistently. Super quiet!
73, Evan, K9SQG -----Original Message----- From: Michael Kelly <mkell...@gmail.com> To: drakelist <drakelist@zerobeat.net> Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Fans Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question .... I wire two 110 vac fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move a good deal of air. The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in the front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a "circular" air flow pattern and the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and for fun) I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on the finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball about half the size of a pea to serve as "feet" on each corner of the fan. It won't stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary. So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both .... As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 3 way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver. Cooler is better, eh? Happy New Year everyone. Michael n4mak Sent from my iPhone //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// > > At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote: >> I've done all which-ways. >> >> I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow >> it down. >> I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a >> 12V wall wart. the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point >> where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed. This fan cost me $5 at a >> hamfest. >> I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the >> filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier). The fans he >> used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan. >> If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply >> for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed >> wires through that hole. I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber >> feet. No holes get drilled that way... >> >> YMMV, >> >> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 >> >> Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. >> John Stark. >> >> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended >> thereto. >> >> From: <mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.net>Michael & Sue Trussell >> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM >> To: <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>drakelist@zerobeat.net >> Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter? >> >> I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I >> know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the >> 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I >> don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on. I would like >> the fan to come on when I turn on the power to the transmitter, any >> suggestions? >> >> Thank you in advance >> >> Michael J Trussell KA8ASN >> >> >> ---------- >> _______________________________________________ >> Drakelist mailing list >> Drakelist@zerobeat.net >> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist >> _______________________________________________ >> Drakelist mailing list >> Drakelist@zerobeat.net >> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
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