Scott wrote: >My only HF rig is the K1 and it suits my needs well... >My K1 cost me half what the K2 would have when built to suit, >and the KX1 wasn't available when I bought the rig.
The K1 is still tops for field work, in my book. Even had the KX1 been available, I'd have bought my K1 (SN 175) based on the K1 having: 1. Four bands, with option for two more, 2. Wider-range antenna tuner, 3. Better IF crystal filter network, 4. Theoretically better receiver performance, 5. Higher transmitter power capability, 6. Better transmitter spurious output performance, 7. Good self-contained speaker (if the KBT1 isn't used), 8. Continuous analog VFO tuning instead of step-wise DDS tuning, 9. Headphone output easily (in later K1s) connected for mono phones, 10. Noise blanker option (though it's rarely effective on noise I've encountered). KX1 fans too can come up with a long list of features performed better than the K1. The top five I can think of are: 1. SW BC band coverage, 2. Lighted display, 3. Audio feedback, 4. DDS VFO stability, 5. It's smaller and lighter. Both the K1 and KX1 are good rigs. Still, it would definitely be incorrect to refer to the KX1 as an "improved" K1. >If I was shopping today, the K1's price and 7-band capability would >steer my decision straight to it. I agree, though right now there are "only" six Elecraft-supported K1 bands available. >My 7Ah gel is great for home operation, but I'd rather have something >slimmer for the days I'm portable. Sometimes I take a pack of 8 AA >alkalines. I'm not sold on the KBT1... I carry a 10 AA-cell pack with 2.2 A-Hr NiMH cells. It's lighter and smaller than the equivalent 2.3 A-Hr SLA batteries, and has higher full-charge voltage output. I also have a 5 A-Hr SLA for portable use. I had the KBT1 installed for 18 months before permanently removing it. I like the larger original speaker much better than the micro speaker of the KBT1, and I don't like having potential chemical leakage sources inside the K1 case. It's also awkward to recharge the KBT1 pack. The K1 RF PCB and the KBT1 should be re-designed to connect to each other through a polarized two-pin connector mounted *on the RF board* rather than through the soldered leads of the current design or the floating connector that many have backfitted. 73, Mike / KK5F _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
