Ron ZL1TW wrote:
I just made an alteration to my K2/100 ... I removed the top
and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
In my humble opinion it looks heaps better, rather than having "warts"
sticking out all over the surface of the set.
I guess it has been raised before, but I have to wonder why Elecraft used
flathead screws on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the
K2?
-----------------------
Very interesting project, Ron.
I appreciate countersunk screw heads too. For a lot of my homebrew rigs I
bolt together boxes and chassis using 1/2 in aluminum angle stock and flat
aluminum or even wood pieces. Generally I use flat head countersunk screws
going through the panels into tapped holes in the angle stock.
Sometimes I use pan head screws like Elecraft does. The reason I do that is
when there needs to be a little 'wiggle' room - a fraction of a mm - but
some room for slight misalignment. A flat head screw wants to center in the
countersink and doesn't tolerate any significant maladjustment without
showing an ugly edge or refusing to thread in at all. That can be solved by
over-drilling the holes in the frame and using nuts, but I prefer to go to a
pan-head screw for the simplicity and to avoid having to find a way to hold
the nut inside the closed-up box while tightening the last bolts from the
outside!
I simply assumed that Elecraft avoided counter-sunk screws for the same
reason.
Ron AC7AC
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