Hi Don,
I have measured across the connectors as well as using the K3's display.
Obviously the K3's display indicates worse than what it is but the fact remains
that the voltage drop is unacceptable.
I solder all my APP's, I don't believe that crimping connectors results in a
good connection, particularly when your working with high current low[ish]
voltage connections.
I don't know how the connectors were fitted to the original cable that was
supplied with my factory built K3 but it is significantly worse than cables I
have made here so I assume that it is crimped.
I have tried both genuine and non genuine APP's and neither instill any
confidence in them for me.
I'd rather use the 6 pin molex style connector that YaecomWood use as I have
had less issues with those than I have ever had with APP's.
however, as there is not enough room on the back panel for one of those style
connectors, soldered wires to the mainboard will have to do. (With some sort of
strain relief fitted obviously)
73 de
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Elecraft K3 # 4257
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Wilhelm
To: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Cc: Ron D'Eau Claire ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Jeff,
Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
APP connectors is 600 microohms.
At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
(directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3
display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode
in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply
voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing
20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes,
the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP
connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the
APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's
were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
>
> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are
soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed
cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock
for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a
bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came
against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all,
I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job
tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
> > From: k6...@me.com
> > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
> >
> > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the
little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire)
extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the
metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
> >
> > =============\
> > ------------- \
> >
> > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector
that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the
end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part
of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
> >
> > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
> >
> >
> > Lew K6LMP
> >
>
>
>
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