Basically, there is nothing wrong with your plan. As long as get everything adjusted, it should all work like a champ. I realize that your approach is $100 cheaper, but if it doesn't work without you needing a drink during the process, reconsider and do another Signalink. I'm facing a similar issue with interfacing with my collection of "stuff". I kinda feel I'll take the path of least grief even if it takes a few extra bucks. Best of luck.

73,
Barry
K3NDM


On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
Barry and Don

I have the Signalink USB. However I have it dedicated to the K2. For the KX3, I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation resistors Don suggested instead of buying another Signalink. I realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the TX just tickle the ALC. Is there a flaw in this plan?

Ariel

> Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:20:12 -0400
> From: k3...@comcast.net
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
>
> Don/Dave,
>
> Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied
> with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to
> interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own
> sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This
> arrangement works fine here.
>
> Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen
> that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of failures > that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound cards of
> transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not
> investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode
> software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the
> SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their
> transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have
> seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for
> the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your transmit
> levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means
> don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.
>
>
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
>
>
>
> On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.
> > If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that
> > application. It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a
> > Mac.
> >
> > The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels
> > involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC
> > or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
> >
> > Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack
> > (the green one). That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level
> > is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100
> > K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on
> > the KX3 side will do the job.
> >
> > On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the
> > audio to the computer. This will be fed to the computer Line In or
> > lacking that the Mic Input. Again an attenuator will be required. If
> > you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series
> > with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on
> > the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer
> > mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.
> >
> > If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the
> > normal applications will only use the left channel which is the
> > connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.
> >
> > That should get you started. As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would
> > suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown
> > menu. Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
> >> Hi folks,
> >> HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried
> >> everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many
> >> permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!
> >>
> >> I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and
> >> am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff
> >> working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's,
> >> but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.
> >>
> >> I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
> >>
> >> Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to
> >> interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic
> >> input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic
> >> that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.
> >>
> >> I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital
> >> Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
> >>
> >> Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7
> >> sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me,
> >> which hookup do I use?
> >>
> >> My assumptions so far:
> >> Low power, 5 watts or less
> >> I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
> >> I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other
> >> external sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I
> >> use the iMic?)
> >> I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
> >>
> >> I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with
> >> Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to
> >> help me understand all of its nuances.
> >>
> >> Arghhh … please help a newbie!
> >> 73,
> >> Dave, K6WDE
> >> dave.esq...@gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
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