I am really glad to see this appear, too.
I have always wondered what is really going on inside the connector, and
that reaming out of the solder holes will surely help.

What I am REALLY glad about is that the older style of PL-259 with a little
cover and a set-screw are gone.  Long gone.


On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Mark <n...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> The advantage of k3lr's method is that the quality of the soldering of the
> braid is easy to
> inspect.  I used the tinned braid tubing cutter method many times but
> still managed to put
> a connector on that I filled the holes with solder and not connecting to
> the braid. (It still
> worked for a couple of years like that BTW).  It looked good.
>
> Mark. N2QT
>
> > On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:06 AM, Vic K2VCO <k2vco....@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it
> this way. I would tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then
> solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem
> with one done like this.
> >
> >
> >> On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:
> >> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
> >> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask
> because
> >> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before
> you
> >> got your ticket" grumps).
> >>
> >> What is your opinion of this method:
> >>
> >> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <k2vco....@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip
> is
> >>> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"?   I see replies with
> guys
> >>>> using 200-300W irons!
> >>>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot
> of
> >>>> body with holes in it?
> >>>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there.
> We
> >>>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years
> >>>> ago.  Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and  compared
> >>>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors.
> >>>> He used 100W iron like mine.  Guess which type  had the lower
> resistance?
> >>>> 73, Mike
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>>   From: Ken G Kopp <kengk...@gmail.com>
> >>>> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM
> >>>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
> >>>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas....
> >>>>
> >>>> Here's suggestions ...
> >>>>
> >>>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells.
> >>>>
> >>>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and
> >>>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter.  Leave about a 1/16"
> >>>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when
> >>>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's
> >>>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion.
> >>>>
> >>>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
> >>>> of the connector as much as possible.  The holes will then be
> >>>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making
> >>>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier.
> >>>>
> >>>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector
> >>>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-)
> >>>>
> >>>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector
> >>>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers
> >>>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector.  That's an incidental came-
> >>>> later feature.  Note that the threads inside the connector are
> "square"
> >>>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable.  Hint:  A tiny
> >>>> touch
> >>>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the
> ribbed
> >>>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a
> >>>> small assist with slip-joint pliers.
> >>>>
> >>>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and
> >>>> solder them correctly.
> >>>>
> >>>> 73!
> >>>>
> >>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP
> >>>> kengk...@gmail.com
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Vic, K2VCO
> >>> Fresno CA
> >>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
> >>>
> >>> ______________________________________________________________
> >>> Elecraft mailing list
> >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>>
> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> > --
> > Vic, K2VCO
> > Fresno CA
> > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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