Ron,
Mea culpa. You are right. I misused definitions. I use doublets. :-)
73,
Barry
K3NDM
------ Original Message ------
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <r...@cobi.biz>
To: "'Emory Schley'" <silverlo...@gmx.com>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/30/2017 9:54:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"
Yep, that is my favorite antenna for H.F. fed with open wire line and a
balanced tuner.
But I never refer to it as a "dipole" since the classic definition of
a dipole means it is 1/2 wave long. What you describe is what us O.T.s
call a "doublet" or "center fed wire".
73, Ron AC7AC
-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Emory Schley
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 5:38 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"
I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often
MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew
McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you
can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math,
no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely
needed.
Emory Schley
N4LP
Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always possible,
or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator is better
than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the subject of
antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two among friends,
and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But, if you can't
make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can and let your
antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about that extra
db.
73,
Barry
K3NDM
------ Original Message ------
From: "Fred Jensen" <k6...@foothill.net>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"
N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt
N.
Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will go
somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood fence
on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt counterpoise
[the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd for 160 but
the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160 and 80,
semi-NVIS on 40.
One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's
about
1.8 m off the ground.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:
Wayne,
I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you
can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with
the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the
physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have
loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.
Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections
and
the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a
length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over.
And
just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW
contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with
open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada,
and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have
been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company
added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up
and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.
73,
Barry
K3NDM
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