Robert,

Do you have a good signal at TP3? If so, ignore the PLL Reference oscillator and U4 for now.

You need to get the VFO operating before doing anything else.
Do the DC measurements a Q18. If you do not have a negative voltage at the gate, it is not oscillating.

T5 is the most likely problem with the VFO. Make certain it is wound correctly and the leads are well stripped and tinned. If you see a ring around the lead (on the solder side), that lead was not adequately stripped and tinned. Both windings must be wound in the same direction.

If all the above is correct, put a temporary jumper across C60 to disable the VFO ALC circuit. If it oscillates with the jumper in place, but not without it, replace Q17. If that still does not correct it, try replacing Q16. Be certain D11 is oriented correctly.

Ignore the voltages on U4 pins 5, 6, and 7 - those are digital signals, and the manual lists the voltage for the active signal, not what you would typically measure with a DMM. If you look at them with a 'scope you can see pulses on those lines, and that should be sufficient for proper operation.

RFC 15 also needs to be ignored until after you get the VFO operating. Once you get a VFO signal at TP1, then you can investigate the operation of U4.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/6/2017 9:47 PM, Robert Forster wrote:
Hello to the group!

I'm afraid I need to lean on your collective K2 troubleshooting expertise.
After a long break I have finally made it to the Alignment and Test Part 2
of my build.  Everything was going OK until I got to the VCO Test.  I have
no signal at TP1.  I have tested this with the built in counter as well as
an external counter.  I have gone through some of the troubleshooting I
could find online:

The orientation of D13 and D8 look good

I have checked the soldering at relays K13, K14 and K15 and the value of
C72.

I have checked the varactors at D21 through D26 and they are oriented
properly I am nearly certain they are all the correct type

I tested RFC15 in the circuit and could not get any continuity through it.
When I pulled it out of the circuit it tested fine so I put it back in.
I'm sure this is something basic I just dont understand.

I know there is some more testing I can do with Q17 and Q18 (I did check
that they are the right type and orientation I also check all the component
values around Q18) Lets set that aside for just a second though...

Here is where I think it gets a little weird.  Looking at the schematic I
followed it back to U4.  When I compared the voltage table to what i was
actually seeing on U4 I think I may have found my problem.  According to
the table pin 7 should have 0 Volts but i'm showing 4.8!  It also shows
that pin 13 should have 4 volts but I'm showing 0.  All other pins are
normal and match the chart.

Following Pin 7 of U4 back to Pin 1 of U5 I see the same 4.8 volts.
This is supposed to be a clock line so I'm confused where this sort of
voltage would be comming from.

I'm still new to alot of this and this is by far the most complex kit I've
taken on so any and all help will be appreciated!

Thanks and 73,
Robert
AD0TA



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