Thanks to all who responded, both on and off the reflector.
Tom N0SS and Don W3FPR were right - it's actually very easy to get the inserts out. The inserts were squeezed together when I was soldering them (i put them into a "3rd hand" which apparently was clamping down rather tightly) which caused them not to work anymore. I just had to open up the contact fingers a bit and no more worries!
Anyhow - problem solved.
I just finalized the testing of the KPA 100 and I'm happy to report all works FB. Maybe I've adjusted the bias current a bit on the conservative side, max power out is about 90 watts into a dummy load but the difference between 90 and 110 watts will never be noticed in practice.

Thanks again for all the good advice I got while building my K2/KSB2/KPA100. Hope I'll be able to return the favour one day and to maybe work you guys on the air.

73 de Glenn ON4WIX
K2/100 s/n 5361


----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Missouri Guy, N0TT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Receiver Tests failed! - Problem nearlysolved (Crimp pin removal)


Hi Charlie:

Unfortunately these ate not cylindrical-bodied connectors. So the thin-wall brass tubing won't work here... too bad, too... that method works GREAT on many MOLEX-type connectors... I usually salvage old telescoping transistor radio antennas for that specific use.

Fortunately, all he has to do is to reach in thru the access hole for each pin and depress the little locking finger and pull the pin out, then bend the finger back up into position.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 10:23 AM 5/29/2006, Missouri Guy, N0TT wrote:
I don't know if the pins are the same type I have used
and removed, but I used a piece of thin-walled brass
tubing just small enough to clear the plastic connector.
I just push the tubing in over the pins and the "tangs"
on the connector are released.

73,
Charlie,  N0TT
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