Agreed its best done with specific equipment for using this solder.  Mainly
you need higher temperatures and slightly larger tips.  I noted that the
boards that came with my K1 were all RoHS compliant and so I decided to go
ahead and build the thing lead free.  

I used the RoHS solder station we built at work which has specific Pace
soldering stations and desoldering stations specific for working with the
higher temp stuff.  Even have a BGA rework station but thankfully Elecraft
stays away from the BGA stuff! :)



-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:38 PM
To: Charles Harpole
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new solder

Charles,

I have tried some of that no-lead solder and found the same thing as 
you.  It requires a higher soldering iron temperature and does not 
conduct heat through itself very well.  It is doubly difficult to 
de-solder a thru-plated hole that has been soldered with that stuff.

Unless you have some really binding restrictions where you live, I 
suggest that you stick with the regular leaded solder for electronic 
work and leave the no-lead solders to the manufacturers.  It does work 
better with SMD components than with thru-plated hole construction.

73,
Don W3FPR

Charles Harpole wrote:
> I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead.  I get
what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries,
same result.  Anyone else get the same?  73Charles Harpole
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