My impression is that it is indeed at least partially related to
font-lock. I have also observed that (at least on a mac) it is much
worse in emacs 23 than in emacs 22 (to the point where it has made me
swicth back to emacs 22 to make org usable). A recent post suggested
using 

(setq font-lock-verbose nil)

which does improve things (by avoiding printing some messages during
font-lock), but it is still slow for me in emacs 23. My org files are
15 or so, around 30K lines each. --Man

-- 
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Manuel Hermenegildo 
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