On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/28 Gene Heskett <gene.hesk...@gmail.com>:
>> I need to take the saddle off
>> again and see if I can actually make it set level and solid on the ways,
>
>When I checked my (cheap, chinese) lathe I found that each part of the
>saddle had been scraped-in to its bed way, but not so that they both
>touched simultaneously.
>It only took about an hour with blue and a scraper to get it sitting
>down solidly on both bedways at the same time, and the improvement was
>immense. (the brass tapered gibbs help a bit too). I can now
>cheerfully part off 3.5" stainless, whereas previously I couldn't even
>dream of parting 1" aluminium.

I'm having a hell of a time with 5/8" steel, chatter is breaking the edge off 
the knife.  I lost an inch resharpening it while parting off the motor 
couplings for the mill, but that was old mine shafting and harder than hells 
hinge pins.  I guess I'll have to do the same here.

My bed is  wider and thicker over the last 2" on the right end, enough that 
if I have it snugged down, I have to loosen the gibs to get it off.  PIMA!

Thanks for the encouragement to dig deeper.  The first thing I fixed was the 
angle of the front v-cut in the bottom of the saddle, pulled down snug in 
front, it rocked the rear of the saddle up about 90 thou when it seated on 
the V.  I fixed that on the milling machine as I have one of those 4" sears 
angle vises.  And in trying to control the spaghetti of that QCTH, I pulled 
the threads out of the compound & the new one is about a thou too narrow, so 
its pretty solid.  And a PITA to crank.  I believe I am going to make a new 
square steel tool holder, with the slot bottom on 2 sides to hold 1/4" tools, 
the 3rd for 5/16" stuff (I have a Glanz kit. uses a Valenite chip, thats 
several bucks a chip), and the 4th side rigged for a cutoff knife as that 
would be hundreds of times stiffer than the QC POS.  Why they cut that for 
3/8" tools on a machine that small is beyond me.  For that I just need to 
find a suitable block of steel & my round tuit.  I seem to have miss-laid 
that puppy.  The A axis adapter I made for the mill, I had to make a boring 
bar, used 3/4" rod about 10" long, milled a groove in the end to hold the 
teeny little Glanz bar & super glued it in, and made a clamp block out of a 
2.5" sq block of steel, using the hold down bolt to close the clamp.  In alu, 
it worked fairly well with a bunch of junk on the back end to keep the 
chatter down to a dull roar (most of the time).  It took me about 3 days to 
do that bore though cuz the biggest starter hole I could bore was 5/8 and the 
little bar kit from LMS was all used up from broken tips by the time I could 
get that big bar started into the hole.  I ran out of carbide resharpening 
them. :)

Using the QCTH, the tools are so far off center on the whole rig, its 
difficult to keep the cross slide from rocking up half a thou, and that is 
enough to get the chatter started I believe.  Cutting with the compound 
pulled way back reduces it, a lot.  As does bigger chucks.  I put the old 3" 
it came with on the A axis table for the mill, more fun getting that centered 
than a barrel of monkeys.  And because the scroll is miss-cut, center is 
defined by how big the part being held is, as the table itself has no 
provision for a morse taper center.

Things such as this have discouraged me from trying to cnc it, I'd be time 
ahead to drop the card for one of grizzly's bigger ones as I really need a 
larger bore in the headstock, and 26+" between centers.  Then I'd probably 
need an FFL too. :-)

-- 
Cheers, Gene
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The NRA is offering FREE Associate memberships to anyone who wants them.
<https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp>

If you're carrying a torch, put it down.  The Olympics are over.

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