Hi Gene,

>almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid 
> comes out of the center.  So that center tube feeding in the oil is 
> surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that tube 
> and the drilled holes walls.


Yup. The tricky bit is finding the right drill diameter. You only need a 
very small gap otherwise you end up using LOTS of air. With a small gap 
you can use a higher pressure and most of the flow is then air dragged 
in by the high velocity air stream.

A better way may be to drill the other way round. A big hole followed by 
a smaller hole that is the jet size. The oil tube is then fitted through 
a star shaped insert that fits in the larger hole. The air travels 
through the gaps in the star. Slightly more complicated but it reduces 
the restriction on airflow so again you can decrease the jet gap and 
increase efficiency. Mine uses a fair amount of air and the compressor 
kicking in on a fairly regular basis can get annoying.


Oh yes, I forgot to mention you really need a needle valve and one-way 
valve in the oil line. If you don't have a one-way valve the oil drains 
back and takes a while to start flowing next time you turn on the air. I 
used 4mm nylon pipe from the oil reservoir to the mister. You can buy 
4mm push fit needle valves and one way valves designed for pneumatics.

>  Neat, and looks to be fairly rugged too.


The thin inner tube is a little vulnerable but so far it has survived on 
my lathe where it often gets wrapped up in swarf.

> Good to know that the atomization can be overdone.

Yes you want to keep atomization to a minimum.

> pump, triggering it with a spare relay on the spindle controller, spindle 
> running, get oil in the air.

I use a solenoid valve on the air supply, driven from the mist coolant 
output.

Les

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