Hi Dave,

I haven't checked the wheel for accuracy but I would think that this 
method of generation actually is less prone to errors than methods which 
cut each tooth separately. Once the teeth are established as to number 
and you infeed the wheel onto the tap, there are always at least 3 
cutting teeth (threads) in contact with the wheel at any one time and 
this should even out the effects of any minor errors in the tap pitch. I 
also usually feed the worm along the tap a little each way as I cut 
which will again reduce errors by using different parts of the tap. I 
don't know whether there would be any benefit in reducing cyclic errors 
by producing only wheels with an odd number of teeth like 91 instead of 
90 - I did work out what the error would be if I could only make a 91 
tooth one and set EMC2 up to suit it and, from what I remember, the 
error was infinitessimal. The great beauty of this method is that you 
can make a wheel from scratch in just a few minutes. I simply set up a 
post with the same diameter as the bore of the blank on my miller's bed 
( actually made as a tube sleeve over a bolt ), slipped a spacer onto it 
( a second wheel blank) and then the wheel blank I wanted to cut and 
capped it off with a nut and washer to stop the blank lifting during 
cutting. The cutter was a normal 10mm x 1mm tap and, with the blank 
initially set to centre height of the cutter, I wound the blank into the 
cutter so as to take a fairly hefty cut as I found that this was the 
easiest way to establish a set of even teeth ( i.e. not 90 1/2!). Then I 
just left the thing running merrily along as I slowly wound the blank 
further in until I thought that the teeth in the wheel were deep enough 
- i.e. not quite full depth on the tap so that I didn't get 'bottoming' 
when using the finished worm. Once this stage was reached I decided that 
I wanted the teeth to be 'flat' across the wheel so that I could remove 
it from the rotary without having to disturb the worm ( don't know why 
but it just seemed like a good idea at the time...) and so I then wound 
the knee of the machine up and down slowly as the work was still 
spinning away. On other wheels I have made (which I made on the lathe) I 
didn't do this and so the worm and wheel make contact for maybe 1/3 of 
the worm's diameter - this may be better - I don't know. Anyway, the 
whole cutting job and subsequent cleaning up took only about 5 minutes 
per wheel. The other thing I did was to mount the wheel on an eccentric 
in the rotary table so that I can easily adjust backlash if necessary to 
compensate for wear - that hasn't been necessary yet..

Why not make one and try out this way - it costs nothing except a bit of 
scrap material and maybe half an hour....

Best wishes,
Ian
______________________
Ian W. Wright
Sheffield  UK

Dave Caroline wrote:
> Looks nice Ian but I would love to measure the wheel for errors in
> tooth to tooth distance. We had trouble directly attributable to the
> worm and wheel in a bought dividing head, we made some 144 tooth
> wheels for a project at the BHI and they were rightly rejected, for
> normal clock work the error did not show or was withing tolerance but
> for a high count the error becomes pronounced.
>
> The easy check I use to test dividing now is get your digital
> calipers, measure over n teeth, zero caliper , rinse repeat but only
> zero if less than a previous measurement. you then see a large
> percentage change in places around the wheel if you have a dividing
> error its due to worm/wheel form error giving a sawtooth error to the
> dividing.
>
> Dave Caroline
>
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