On Fri, 2 Mar 2012 13:47:40 -0500
  gene heskett <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Friday, March 02, 2012 01:24:42 PM Cathrine Hribar did opine:
> 
>> On Thu, 1 Mar 2012 21:23:11 -0500
>> 
>>   gene heskett <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > Rather than inline the carriage drive screw, with will leave the motor
>> > hanging out quite a ways on the left end of this lathe, I could save
>> > about 3" if I mounted the motor to the bed on another piece of 1/4"
>> > alu plate, such that a gear on the motor shaft would engage a gear on
>> > the lead screw.
>> > 
>> > I bought a set of steel change gears before I got the bug to put
>> > motors on this thing, so it looks as if I can drive a 65T on the lead
>> > screw with a 35T on the motor, an 8 wire 425 that says 5 amps on it,
>> > but I suspect that is a per coil, one at a time rating.  I am only
>> > using about 2.40 amps on the Z axis for the mill and it certainly
>> > seems to be enough when the coils are wired in series.  I can put 155
>> > lbs on a bath scale with it, which is a heck of an improvement over
>> > that same motor driving the old, back of the post screw and tapping
>> > the motor out at 5 lbs showing on the same scale.
>> > 
>> > Anyway, is there such a 'hub' I can buy, or am I doomed to try & make
>> > it?
>> 
>> Hi Gene:
>> 
>> For years I was unable to make things like that, if u need some one to
>> make it, and can't do it your self, I will help.  I can do castings and
>> machine stuff like that and it's fun!
>> 
>> show me a drawing or hand sketch.
>> 
>> Bill  WA0WWN
> 
> What I have in mind is locating the center of the existing keyed hole in 
> the gear, drilling 3 holes around it for 10-24 screws at 120 degree 
> intervals, then taking a ball nose to bore it for a tapered hole, then make 
> the corresponding Browning Taperlock hub insert.  Only about 10% of the 
> size Browning usually makes.
> 
> I am continually amazed at watching a 9" dual belt pulley, mounted to a 
> 1.25" shaft with such a hub, sitting there running for 50 years & countless 
> belts and 2 or 3 pulley replacements because they wear too, with edge 
> wobbles of perhaps 2 or 3 thou if the bolts are equally torqued.  Because 
> the hub needs to be slightly crush able when its drawn in, I don't see 
> opening up the 10mm hole far enough to remove the vestiges of the key slot, 
> leaving the hubs tapered walls thin, just enough to establish the taper 
> angle the full thickness of these 10mm thick gears.
> 
> My major fit problem would be in making the 1/4" hole in the hub to a 
> sufficiently accurate .2505" to get a good fit on the 425oz motors shaft.  
> Probably by mic'ing my ball noses and using one of them for a drill bit as 
> I know my drill doctor isn't able to grind a drill's nose accurately enough 
> to prevent runout and an oversized hole.  Going in with smaller mills means 
> a tapered hole, not a workable situation IMO.
> 
> I'd drill a smaller pilot hole for the ball nose of course.  That is likely 
> my first experiment this afternoon, to see if I can actually drill a hole 
> to that accuracy level.  If I can, then I think I am off to the races.
> 
> If that fails, I might take you up on that offer Bill, thank you.
> 
Gene:
sounds like you know more about machining than I do. Good luck with that man.
Bill


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