On Fri, 2012-08-24 at 12:45 -0400, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Friday 24 August 2012 12:26:40 dave did opine:
> 
> > On Fri, 2012-08-24 at 08:12 +0200, Jan de Kruyf wrote:
> > > > I have never seen such a material on this side of the pond, Jan. 
> > > > Where does one get it?
> > > 
> > > DuPont makes it if I am not mistaken. It is used to make bearing
> > > bushes for valves and the like.
> > > The price is not quite up to Moglice standards. But $100 is also
> > > quickly paid for that stuff.
> > > 
> > > I forget what the etching liquid is, but it is quite aggressive and
> > > very nasty (only for use in 3rd world :)
> > > The supplier always makes me wait a few days "for the weather to get
> > > right for etching".
> > > 
> > > In any case I see you are of the generation of "the wooden ships and
> > > the iron men"
> > > I learned my trade on the iron ships, see.
> > > 
> > > cheers,
> > > 
> > > j.
> > > 
> > > > > (with an etched
> > > > > surface, otherwise the glue does not hold) onto the running
> > > > > surface of a taper gib.
> > > > 
> > > > Etched with what acid?
> > 
> > Found this on the web.
> > 
> > 40g water
> > 25g potassium dichromate
> > 500g concentrated sulfuric acid
> 
> Interesting.  Why such a puny amount of water?  40g of water in 500g of 
> Sulphuric CP will only reduce it to about 1.65 SG.
> 
> One would assume concentrated means fuming, or C.P. acid.  I'd have to look 
> around to find the potassium dichromate though.
C.P is probably slightly less than 68%, fuming is 100% and nasty stuff.
Lots of mineral dissolution is done in conc. sulfuric/nitric and in a
good hood unless you want to cough your guts out and mess up your
lungs. 
>  
> > A note of caution: as usual add the sulfuric to the water, slowly with
> > stirring and cooling.
> > 
> > This etches the delrin ..... so epoxy has a chance of adhesion.
> 
> I see, I was wondering how that was managed.
> 
> > I think
> > I'd test before I did a real piece.
> > 
> > As for a moglice work-alike I think I'd try a slow-curing epoxy loaded
> > with moly disulfide. Mix the epoxy by weight to get the proportions
> > correct. (kitchen digital scale :-))
> 
> Devcon's old one can of black and one can of white epoxy steel with some 
> added moly might work well.  I have bedded quite a few guns with it. Stable 
> too, Bertha's recoil lug is as tight today as it was in the '70's when I 
> last re-bedded it after a fresh Douglas tube was screwed into it.
I suspect that the Devcon is about as loaded as they dare get it. That
is why I suggested a non-loaded epoxy. 
> 
> Or a modern reloaders scale.  I have a Hornaday Lock & Load automatic these 
> days, but be sure to breath heavy on the air guard cover over the pan, else 
> its static charge from handling can lighten the pan by 2 or so grains, 
> throwing an overcharge :(  More accurate when you know its limits.
You have to breath on it with your humidity. Hate to think what I'd have
to do. ;-)

> 
> I have that moly powder in bulk as I do my own moly coating of bullets. Big 
> Double grin for that...
> 
> Thanks Dave.
> 
> Cheers, Gene



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