Your having way too much fun Gene.

On 8/13/2013 9:50 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 13 August 2013 10:15:50 John Thornton did opine:
>
>> I know most of you guys on the mailing list don't visit the forum so
>> here is a link to a G code generator for drilling and tapping holes on a
>> mill. I wrote this mainly because we don't have a tapping cycle and if I
>> forgot the pre-position move then you get a really neat show as your tap
>> traverses from where it is to the bottom of the hole. Anyone ever seen a
>> tapped slot?
>>
>> This saves me time when I need to tap some holes in a part and helps
>> prevent errors.
>>
>> http://linuxcnc.org/index.php/english/forum/31-cad-cam/26859-mill-tappin
>> g-g-code-generator
>>
>> JT
>>
> Thank you John for continuing to expand this idea.  It's beginning to look
> as if I need to either get a bigger mill, or so serious work on this one to
> see if I can incorporate rigid tapping encoders, in a spindle with enough
> power to turn the tap.
>
> Has anyone ever attempted to put a treadmill motor on an X1?  :)
>
> FWIW, I did improve the Z drive I'd made a bit here about 2 weeks ago.  I
> had come across some fairly hard, 1/2" x 5" 7076 alu stock that I had used
> for the jackshaft mount in my lathe & had lots of that left, so I sawed off
> a 7" piece, ripped it down the middle, the made a cutaway to clear the gib
> & lock screws on the left side of the head casting, drilled & tapped an 8mm
> hole near the corner on each end and installed 2 of the leftover ball
> bearings I removed from my bandsaw when I converted it to koolblocks &
> carbide backing shoes, then drilled & tapped 4 more 8mm holes in the sides
> of the casting and bolted these on so the bearings ride the post & maintain
> its supposedly 90 degree stickout angle.
>
> That seems to have alleviated most of the stictions cause by the off the
> axis location of the drive screw, tending to want to tip the sled up & down
> (its way contact length is way too short to work well).
>
> Now I get the impression I need to move the counterweighting springs anchor
> point to the rear.  And maybe buy some ball screws. :)
>
> Cheers, Gene


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